Current version by: mayer
Text:
| + | https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/IR-Thermometer/IF145-249?o=2 |
|---|---|
| + | |
| If you did not find any obvious problems in the exhaust vent system to the outside of the home, then I recommend conducting the following test: | |
| Before replacing the thermal fuse again, try these steps: | |
| Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. | |
| Temporarily tape the two wires that go to the thermal fuse together to essentially "bypass" or "jump" the thermal fuse. Use electrical tape to properly insulate the connection and avoid contact of bare wire contacts with the dryer cabinet. NOTE: Do not leave the thermal fuse bypassed following this temporary diagnostic test. The thermal fuse is an essential safety component that must normally be in place to safely run the dryer. | |
| Reassemble the dryer and plug it back in. | |
| Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet laundry. | |
| Clean the lint screen and make sure it is properly in place in the lint screen housing. | |
| Pull the flexible exhaust vent hose off of the back of the dryer so that it will vent directly into the laundry room. | |
| Position the dryer so that you can measure the temperature of the exhaust air from the middle of the vent in the back of the dryer with an accurate thermometer. | |
| Start the dryer on a timed cycle with high heat. | |
| Measure the temperature of the air coming out of the middle of the exhaust vent behind the dryer. | |
| The dryer should heat up to about 150 degrees. The heating element should then shut off until the temperature decreases 15 to 20 degrees. The element should then cycle back on. The dryer should continue to cycle between about 130 to 150 degrees. | |
| If the dryer heats up way past 150 degrees, then you will likely need to replace the operating thermostat that is right beside the thermal fuse. You could also have a heating element that is shorted to the cabinet and heating constantly. | |
| NOTE: Stop the dryer if it heats past 180 degrees. Do not let it continue to run and heat past this temperature. | |
| If the dryer is cycling properly with the vent hose disconnected, then the likely cause of your thermal fuse blowing is the vent duct system to the outside of the home. | |
| NOTE: Be sure to replace the thermal fuse before running the dryer beyond this temporary component test. | |
| NOTE: If you are not completely confident in your technical ability to safely conduct this test, then I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the dryer. |
Status:
open
Edit by: mayer
Text:
| - | If you did not find any obvious problems in the exhaust vent system to the outside of the home, then I recommend conducting the following test: |
|---|---|
| - | |
| - | Before replacing the thermal fuse again, try these steps: |
| - | |
| - | Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. |
| - | |
| - | Temporarily tape the two wires that go to the thermal fuse together to essentially "bypass" or "jump" the thermal fuse. Use electrical tape to properly insulate the connection and avoid contact of bare wire contacts with the dryer cabinet. NOTE: Do not leave the thermal fuse bypassed following this temporary diagnostic test. The thermal fuse is an essential safety component that must normally be in place to safely run the dryer. |
| - | |
| - | Reassemble the dryer and plug it back in. |
| - | |
| - | Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet laundry. |
| - | |
| - | Clean the lint screen and make sure it is properly in place in the lint screen housing. |
| - | |
| - | Pull the flexible exhaust vent hose off of the back of the dryer so that it will vent directly into the laundry room. |
| - | |
| - | Position the dryer so that you can measure the temperature of the exhaust air from the middle of the vent in the back of the dryer with an accurate thermometer. |
| - | |
| - | Start the dryer on a timed cycle with high heat. |
| - | |
| - | Measure the temperature of the air coming out of the middle of the exhaust vent behind the dryer. |
| - | |
| - | The dryer should heat up to about 150 degrees. The heating element should then shut off until the temperature decreases 15 to 20 degrees. The element should then cycle back on. The dryer should continue to cycle between about 130 to 150 degrees. |
| - | |
| - | If the dryer heats up way past 150 degrees, then you will likely need to replace the operating thermostat that is right beside the thermal fuse. You could also have a heating element that is shorted to the cabinet and heating constantly. |
| - | |
| - | NOTE: Stop the dryer if it heats past 180 degrees. Do not let it continue to run and heat past this temperature. |
| - | |
| - | If the dryer is cycling properly with the vent hose disconnected, then the likely cause of your thermal fuse blowing is the vent duct system to the outside of the home. |
| - | |
| - | NOTE: Be sure to replace the thermal fuse before running the dryer beyond this temporary component test. |
| - | |
| + | If you did not find any obvious problems in the exhaust vent system to the outside of the home, then I recommend conducting the following test: |
| + | |
| + | Before replacing the thermal fuse again, try these steps: |
| + | |
| + | Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. |
| + | |
| + | Temporarily tape the two wires that go to the thermal fuse together to essentially "bypass" or "jump" the thermal fuse. Use electrical tape to properly insulate the connection and avoid contact of bare wire contacts with the dryer cabinet. NOTE: Do not leave the thermal fuse bypassed following this temporary diagnostic test. The thermal fuse is an essential safety component that must normally be in place to safely run the dryer. |
| + | |
| + | Reassemble the dryer and plug it back in. |
| + | |
| + | Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet laundry. |
| + | |
| + | Clean the lint screen and make sure it is properly in place in the lint screen housing. |
| + | |
| + | Pull the flexible exhaust vent hose off of the back of the dryer so that it will vent directly into the laundry room. |
| + | |
| + | Position the dryer so that you can measure the temperature of the exhaust air from the middle of the vent in the back of the dryer with an accurate thermometer. |
| + | |
| + | Start the dryer on a timed cycle with high heat. |
| + | |
| + | Measure the temperature of the air coming out of the middle of the exhaust vent behind the dryer. |
| + | |
| + | The dryer should heat up to about 150 degrees. The heating element should then shut off until the temperature decreases 15 to 20 degrees. The element should then cycle back on. The dryer should continue to cycle between about 130 to 150 degrees. |
| + | |
| + | If the dryer heats up way past 150 degrees, then you will likely need to replace the operating thermostat that is right beside the thermal fuse. You could also have a heating element that is shorted to the cabinet and heating constantly. |
| + | |
| + | NOTE: Stop the dryer if it heats past 180 degrees. Do not let it continue to run and heat past this temperature. |
| + | |
| + | If the dryer is cycling properly with the vent hose disconnected, then the likely cause of your thermal fuse blowing is the vent duct system to the outside of the home. |
| + | |
| + | NOTE: Be sure to replace the thermal fuse before running the dryer beyond this temporary component test. |
| + | |
| NOTE: If you are not completely confident in your technical ability to safely conduct this test, then I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the dryer. |
Status:
open
Edit by: mayer
Text:
| - | '''Solution 1:''' |
|---|---|
| - | |
| - | '''Drive Motor''' |
| - | |
| - | Sometimes, when the drive motor fails, it shorts out internally, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the drive motor is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the motor windings are shorted out, replace the drive motor. |
| - | |
| - | '''Solution 2:''' |
| - | |
| - | '''Terminal Block''' |
| - | |
| - | '''Electric dryer power cords attach to the dryer at a terminal block. If any of the wires on the terminal block are loose, they can arc and destroy part of the block. If this happens, one of the wires can short against the body of the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the breaker. This is not a common occurrence.''' |
| + | If you did not find any obvious problems in the exhaust vent system to the outside of the home, then I recommend conducting the following test: [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Before replacing the thermal fuse again, try these steps: [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Temporarily tape the two wires that go to the thermal fuse together to essentially "bypass" or "jump" the thermal fuse. Use electrical tape to properly insulate the connection and avoid contact of bare wire contacts with the dryer cabinet. NOTE: Do not leave the thermal fuse bypassed following this temporary diagnostic test. The thermal fuse is an essential safety component that must normally be in place to safely run the dryer. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Reassemble the dryer and plug it back in. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet laundry. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Clean the lint screen and make sure it is properly in place in the lint screen housing. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Pull the flexible exhaust vent hose off of the back of the dryer so that it will vent directly into the laundry room. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Position the dryer so that you can measure the temperature of the exhaust air from the middle of the vent in the back of the dryer with an accurate thermometer. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Start the dryer on a timed cycle with high heat. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | Measure the temperature of the air coming out of the middle of the exhaust vent behind the dryer. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | The dryer should heat up to about 150 degrees. The heating element should then shut off until the temperature decreases 15 to 20 degrees. The element should then cycle back on. The dryer should continue to cycle between about 130 to 150 degrees. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | If the dryer heats up way past 150 degrees, then you will likely need to replace the operating thermostat that is right beside the thermal fuse. You could also have a heating element that is shorted to the cabinet and heating constantly. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | NOTE: Stop the dryer if it heats past 180 degrees. Do not let it continue to run and heat past this temperature. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | If the dryer is cycling properly with the vent hose disconnected, then the likely cause of your thermal fuse blowing is the vent duct system to the outside of the home. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | NOTE: Be sure to replace the thermal fuse before running the dryer beyond this temporary component test. [br] |
| + | [br] |
| + | NOTE: If you are not completely confident in your technical ability to safely conduct this test, then I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the dryer. |
Status:
open
Original post by: mayer
Text:
'''Solution 1:''' '''Drive Motor''' Sometimes, when the drive motor fails, it shorts out internally, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the drive motor is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the motor windings are shorted out, replace the drive motor. '''Solution 2:''' '''Terminal Block''' '''Electric dryer power cords attach to the dryer at a terminal block. If any of the wires on the terminal block are loose, they can arc and destroy part of the block. If this happens, one of the wires can short against the body of the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the breaker. This is not a common occurrence.'''
Status:
open