Introduction
The device does not show any reaction. I will show how the temperature fuses can be checked and where the diode to be replaced is soldered in.
What you need
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There are three plastic feet on the bottom of the device. There are Phillips screws underneath.
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Sorry for the blurred picture. The contact plug is fixed by two screws.
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To access the circuit board, the contact plug must be unscrewed.
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The circuit board is fixed with three screws and plastic parts. Those must not to be overlooked.
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To make this work easier, the two cable ties around the cables should be unraveled. Caution. Do not cut into the cables.
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Before replacing the diode, other possibly simple faults, should be eliminated.
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Check the continuity of the three wires of the connecting cable from the Schuko plug to the back of the contact plug with a multimeter.
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2. Check the two thermal fuses (red arrow) in the transparent silicone tubes (one cable white, one blue) for continuity. To do this, trace the cables from the back of the contact plug to the circuit board.
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If the previous tests were ok, then measure the diode with the multimeter (set to diode mode). In this case it will work even in soldered condition. The meter should show a voltage drop of approx. 0.6 V in reverse direction OL and against reverse direction.
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If this does not show,tehn the diode must be replaced. A Schottky diode SR2100 is installed (2 A, 100V). Better would be a SR3200 (3A, 200V). Pay attention to the installation direction. The diodes are available on the Internet in packs of 5 for less than 4 euros.
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The two blue thin cables lead to the temperature sensor. They should have about 100k resistance at room temperature.
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The red and black cable lead to the motor.
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The complete circuit board is also available on the internet. Search the net with the number on the board. But I found only 2 offers for more than 30 Euro.
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Work through the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.
Work through the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.
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