Introduction
Use this guide to replace the screen on your Nintendo Switch Lite. The screen consists of the LCD and digitizer. If you're only replacing the LCD, follow this guide. If you're only replacing the digitizer, follow this guide.
Replacement adhesive is required to complete this guide.
Note: Although removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, it makes this repair much easier.
What you need
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Tool used on this step:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
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Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
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Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
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Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
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Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
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Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
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Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
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Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
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Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
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Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
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Remove the back panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
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Three 3.1 mm screws
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One 4.5 mm screw
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
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Three 3.1 mm screws
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Three 4.5 mm screws
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
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Two 4.5 mm screws
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Two 6 mm screws
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH000 driver to remove the four screws securing the midframe assembly:
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Three 2.5 mm screws
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One 6 mm screw
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Use a spudger to pry the midframe assembly up until you can grip it with your fingers.
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Grip the midframe assembly and pull up to remove it.
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Flip the frame over so the screen is facing up.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Lightly bend the left side of the frame away from the screen to create a gap in the bottom left corner.
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Insert an opening pick in the gap.
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Slide the opening pick along the left edge.
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Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Grip the frame and push up on the underside of the screen's left edge to separate the adhesive securing it.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.
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2 Comments
Thanks for your guide - it was very helpful, first time I took screen off without breaking it off :). I also bought the iFixit kit with the heat pad. I can now see that the trick was not so much a lot of heat, but heat evenly along the whole side
omg you are a lifesaver thank you so much