iPad 2 CDMA Battery Replacement
Introduction
Go to step 1Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the cellular model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
What you need
Fix Kit
This kit contains all the parts and tools needed to complete this guide.
Parts
Tools
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Tool used on this step:Safety Glasses$3.19
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Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
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Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
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Set the LCD face down on the front panel.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.
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While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
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Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
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Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.
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Use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Run a plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to free it from the adhesive attaching the cable to the rear panel.
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Pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the microphone cable connector.
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Carefully lay the LCD next to the rear panel.
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.
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Pull the display data cable out of its socket.
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Use a plastic opening tool to help remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel.
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
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Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad just right of center (the side opposite the rear facing camera). Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
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Move the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
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Move the iOpener to the left edge (the side with the rear facing camera) of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
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Starting with the battery cell closest to the dock connector, run a plastic opening tool underneath the edge of the battery closest to the logic board void to make enough room to insert the flat end of a spudger
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Run the flat end of a spudger along the two long sides of each battery cell to completely separate them from the adhesive securing them to the rear case.
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If the adhesive is very difficult to separate, reheat the rear panel and try again.
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To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to reattach the front panel.
To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to reattach the front panel.
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