Introduction
Follow this guide to remove or replace the battery in an iPad 7.
Note: this guide is for the LTE version only. For the Wi-Fi version, click here.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
What you need
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
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While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
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Front camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Tool used on this step:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
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Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.
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Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.
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Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
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Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
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Tool used on this step:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
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Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two digitizer cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader.
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Remove the vibration isolator.
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Tool used on this step:Polyimide Tape$9.99
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
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Press firmly to eject the SIM card tray.
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Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers.
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Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the right cellular antenna coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Disconnect the left antenna cable.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone assembly by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the right antenna cable and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the vibration isolator.
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Use a pair of tweezers, or your fingers, to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom left corner of the rear case to soften the SIM card reader's adhesive for thirty seconds.
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Use an opening tool to pry up on the bottom edge of the SIM card reader with a slow and steady force.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.2 mm-long screws securing the charging port to the rear case.
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Two 2.2 mm-long screws
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Two 3.2 mm-long screws
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.
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Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the logic board and slide it toward the charging port to slice the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
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Tool used on this step:Halberd Spudger$2.99
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Use a halberd spudger or an opening pick to slice any remaining adhesive securing the logic board to the rear case.
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Cut a strip of painter's tape or scotch tape to the width of the iPad.
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Press the bottom edge of the tape strip onto the rear case above the speakers and bottom antennas.
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Press the top edge of the tape strip over the bottom components to keep any cables from intruding on the battery removal.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover.
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
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Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
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The red boxes show the locations of the adhesive strips that secure the battery to the rear case.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery.
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Tool used on this step:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert a plastic card at the bottom right corner of the battery.
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Remove the plastic card below the battery connector and insert it under the bottom edge of the battery.
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Remove the plastic card above the battery connector and insert it under the upper edge of the battery.
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Slide the plastic card along the top edge of the battery to cut the adhesive strip.
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Insert the plastic card under the upper left corner of the battery.
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Slide the plastic card down towards the bottom of the iPad.
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When you reach the center edge of the battery, insert the plastic card as far as you can to cut the central adhesive strip.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.
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2 other people completed this guide.
2 Comments
I'm not 100% sure you guys know how to replace the battery.
There are more chances of damage by pulling that board with the soldered DC. And by the way you kind forgot to mention the silicone glue underneath the left side of the LCD screen, pull that lcd without breaking that silicone tape and you will be needing to add an new LCD screen to that battery replacement.
Hi Miguel,
I'm not sure about the silicone glue holding the LCD that you're speaking of—we haven't encountered any in the multiple iPad 7s that we've disassembled.
We've considered multiple methods on how to take out the battery. Because of how the battery and logic board are glued down, each method has its pros and cons. The procedure we decided is much more involved (and prone to errors), but reduces the chance of flex damage to the logic board (which would be difficult to diagnose and repair).