Introduction
Follow this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen.
The logic board in your iPad Pro is paired to the Face ID hardware. Replacing it will disable Face ID.
This guide is written with an A2013 (Wi-Fi + Cellular) and an A2301 (Wi-Fi + Cellular + mmWave) iPad Pro. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.
Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.
What you need
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Camera module, ambient light sensors, proximity senor, and front microphone
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Display cables
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Screen magnets
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LCD edges
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Tool used on this step:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
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Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap large enough to insert an opening pick.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module, proximity sensor, and front microphone.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
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Leave the pick to the right of the sensor to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
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Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
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There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.
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Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
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Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.
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Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
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Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
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Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
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Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently separate the rest of the adhesive.
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Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
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Tool used on this step:FixMat$36.95
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
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One 1.3 mm screw
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One 2.0 mm screw
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the bottom cable shield to the logic board.
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bottom cable shield.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
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Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top two display cables.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the bottom cable shield to the logic board.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bottom cable shield.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable.
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Slide an opening pick between the cable and the logic board to separate the adhesive.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the USB-C port to the frame.
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to remove the two grounding contacts from each side of the USB-C port.
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Use a Phillips PH00 screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the shield to the logic board:
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Five 2 mm screws
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Three 1.2 mm screws
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top of the logic board for two minutes.
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Insert an opening pick between the shield and the shielding gasket on the bottom edge of the logic board.
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Slide the pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
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Repeat the previous step for the right edge of the logic board shield.
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Repeat the previous step for the left edge of the logic board shield.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the IR dot projector cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and Face ID camera.
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Slide an opening pick between the IR camera cable and the logic board to separate it.
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Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the front camera assembly to the frame.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the front camera assembly.
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the front camera assembly.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera interconnect cable.
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Fold the interconnect cable over so the top right speaker cable is accessible.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the top microphone cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two cables for the top right speaker.
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Repeat the previous step for the two top left speaker cables.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top interconnect board.
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Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top Wi-Fi antenna cable.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector and SIM card reader cables.
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Follow the procedure in step 57 to disconnect the bottom right speaker.
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape securing the bottom left speaker cable bracket to the logic board.
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Slide the bracket out horizontally.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom left LTE wireless cable.
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Follow the procedure in step 57 to disconnect the bottom right speaker.
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Follow the procedure in 59 to disconnect the bottom interconnect cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom Wi-Fi antenna cable.
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Peel the cable away from the logic board and reposition it to the right.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cables.
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Prop the left side of the iPad up against an object so the isopropyl alcohol can flow under the logic board.
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Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the logic board.
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Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the logic board.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the logic board and the bottom right speaker.
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Slowly pry up the bottom of the logic board.
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Replace the playing card strips with an opening pick to block the battery.
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Slide an opening pick under the left edge of the logic board to loosen it.
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Pry against the frame underneath the logic board to separate the adhesive.
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Tool used on this step:Tesa 61395 Tape$5.99
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Grip the top and bottom edges of the logic board.
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Remove the logic board.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen answers community for help.
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