Introduction
The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Use this guide to remove and replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone 14 Pro Max.
This guide was created using the A2894 (international) model. If you're fixing a different iPhone 14 Pro Max model, there may be some visual discrepancies, but the procedure should be the same.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your device. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach the screen when reassembling the device. Your device will function normally, but will most likely lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.
What you need
-
-
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
-
Remove the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
-
-
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
-
-
-
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
-
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
-
-
Tool used on this step:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
-
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
-
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
-
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
-
-
-
Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
-
Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
-
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
-
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
-
Skip the next two steps.
-
-
-
Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
-
-
-
Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
-
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
-
-
-
Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
-
Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
-
Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.
-
-
-
-
Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
-
-
-
Insert your pick underneath the top right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and half way across the top edge stopping right before the earpiece speaker cut-out.
-
-
-
Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
-
-
You will need to replace the entire module connected via the damaged ribbon cable, or worse, buying an entirely new screen.
-
-
Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
-
Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
-
-
-
Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
-
Open your iPhone by swinging the screen up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
-
Lean the screen against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
-
-
Tool used on this step:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
-
Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the battery connector cover:
-
Six 1.3 mm-long screws
-
One 1.6 mm-long screw
-
One 1.9 mm-long screw
You need to correct the guide. Are five 1.3mm-long screws two 1.6mm-long screws and one 1.9mm-long screw.
second 1.6mm-long screw sit a third one counting from left on right side of lcd flex cable
There is a second 1.6 mm-long screw that is placed on the lower standoff screw. The top left (third total from left) is slightly longer to accommodate the standoff screw. Placing this in the wrong spot will cause long screw damage.
The two previous commenters are correct, probably change to notate the two 1.6mm screws.
Nice job, guys!
-
-
Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
-
Grasp the connector cover with a pair of tweezers and slide it downwards to clear the flex cables.
-
Remove the connector cover.
-
-
-
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
-
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
-
-
-
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the first display cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.5 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker:
-
Three smaller-headed screws
-
One larger-headed screw
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the loudspeaker from the bottom right corner of the phone.
-
-
Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use a pair of tweezers to grab the loudspeaker.
-
Tilt the loudspeaker to separate it from the adhesive-backed strip that leads to the Taptic Engine.
-
Remove the loudspeaker.
-
-
-
Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
-
-
Tool used on this step:Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
-
One 1.8 mm-long screw
-
One 2.3 mm-long screw
-
Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long standoff screw securing the Taptic Engine.
-
-
Tool used on this step:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the Taptic Engine.
-
-
-
Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to gently peel the adhesive-backed strip off of the Taptic Engine.
-
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
2 other people completed this guide.
2 Comments
Dominik, this is one of the best guides I've seen on the Taptic Engine replacement! I was looking on YouTube as well but many of the videos were not as in-detail as this guide. A big thank you! wordle solver
