Introduction
Use this guide to replace a bent or damaged rear case, or to swap out the rear case for cosmetic reasons. The rear case serves as the chassis for the entire phone, so replacing it involves removing all the iPhone's components.
You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the following parts:
- NFC Bracket
- Loudspeaker Mount
- Microphone Mount
- Front Panel Clips
What you need
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Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, on either side of the Lightning connector.
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Tool used on this step:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Tool used on this step:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, follow the next three steps to use a suction handle.
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Apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
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Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.
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Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
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Tool used on this step:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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One 2.9 mm screw
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One 2.2 mm screw
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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
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Three 1.2 mm screws
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One 2.8 mm screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera from its socket on the logic board.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press to eject the tray.
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Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.
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Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.
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Remove the Taptic Engine.
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Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
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For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
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Continue pulling until the strip is fully removed.
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If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then skip to Step 48.
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Tool used on this step:Plastic Cards$2.99
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If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.
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Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.
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After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.
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If your replacement part did not come with the mute switch cover, you will need to remove the switch cover and transfer It.
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Use the flat end of the spudger to press down and hold the old bracket firmly in place.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully rock the switch cover such that the switch cover pins swing out of their clips.
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Lift the switch cover straight up.
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Grasp the metal bar behind either of the two volume control button covers, and pull the button cover out of its housing in the rear case.
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Repeat for the second volume control button cover.
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Grasp the metal bar on the back of the power button cover.
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Remove the power button cover.
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Deroute the antenna cable from its rubber sleeve on the right edge of the rear case.
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Remove the following eight Phillips screws:
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Two 2.9 mm screws securing the headphone jack
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One 3.7 mm screw securing the microphone bracket
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Two 1.3 mm screws on the lower edge of the iPhone
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Two 1.9 mm screws on either side of the Lighting connector
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One 3.0 mm screw to the left of the connector
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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9 Comments
I can't get the phillips 000 screw out on step 52, now it's become too hollow within to open. What do I do?
Stripped screws are the worst! We have a guide on how to remove stripped screws that you may find helpful. Remember to maintain lots of pressure on the screw and stop applying force and try a different method if the bit is still slipping.
Every thing works fine except I have no sound, either on speakerphone or normally. Did I break the upper component cable? I've checked all the plug connections and they seem ok.
I have no sound at all from the normal speaker or in speakerphone mode. I have good cellular and Wi-Fi connections and the phone sees to work perfectly otherwise. The battery charges fine through the Lightning connector. Can't use it as a phone though! Did I break the upper component cable in the disassembly? Any other ideas?
