I have fixed mine twice now. See my comments above. For others daring to try, recommend to study teardown photos to see exactly where the adhesive is and cables are. iSclack or similar highly recommended and suggest to start in the middle of the short side where the cables are not - like opening an iphone. Use heat and finesse rather than force to weaken adhesive. Don’t use solvents to open case - i messed my iPhone 6s by partially delaminating touchscreen.

Last battery was a Nohon battery. Lasted about 18 months. Then the “won’t start up past apple logo” problem. Others have said there was a fix for this bug, but the correct fix appears to be a new battery. New adhesive strips used different adhesive which wasn’t so gummy and was partly unstuck and screen was slightly loose. Disassembled easily using suction cup (Isclack) with extreme care at lower right or avoid this area where all the cables are. Old non-oem strips easily removed. New adhesive strips were different design. Figuring out which goes where is easier lining up with the base features, but strip backing made it easier to apply to the screen. With adhesive strips and intact backing on the screen side, iPad can be assembled for testing prior to final stick down later. Much easier repair this time than with original gummy adhesive.

Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

I’d rate it the hardest repair in earth!

These screws are M1.4.

Screw is M2 x 5mm long.

No need toremove this. The cable squeezes out of the gap under the case with enough length for the antenna plate to be out of the way.

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Reassembly:

Replacement double sided adhesive strips are applied to the case first. Figure which strips go top, bottom and sides. Start with the top or bottom corner. Apply the side strips last so you can figure which side is which.

Make sure the front camera and its window are clean. Use a strong magnifying glass and air duster. You won’t be able to get any dirt out unless you have more adhesive strips to use.

When you are ready to assemble, peel the backing off the double sided adhesive.

Support the screen at 90deg to case. Reattach cable connectors. Attach new battery connector then carefully position new battery with exposed adhesive into position in the case.

Attach connector clamp plate with 4 screws.

Carefully position the screen in case starting from the bottom edge. When it fits all the way around, press firmly round the edges to seal.

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Cleaningoff the old adhesive:

Remove the old adhesive from underside of the glass and the edges of the case. This was the most time consuming part. Took 2-3 hours, because the original adhesive was really gummy and i didn’t want to damage any parts with harsh solvents. (I used a series of methods": citrus oil adhesive remover, methylated spirits, sticky tape stick and lift off.)

Making sure the edges of the glass and case are spotless ensures a good result when applying the new adhesive strips. New strips can be gently applied, peeled back and reapplied to make 100% sure they are in the right place. If adhesive residue is still present the new strips could get stuck in the wrong place and be impossible to reposition.

The vibrator motors die with use, so it could be that they just died coincidentally. I have replaced two on two phones. There are two models of vibrate motor - one with bent metal contacts and one with two coil springs. There were two different vibrate motors in the two iPhone 3G 16GB we bought at the same time. I chose to buy the motors with the coil springs, since they should maintain contact better over time.

Note the photograph shows the two tabs on the vibrate motor visible - this is incorrect. The tabs go into slots in the rear case. The vibrate motors behave better attached to the rear case with a small dab of neutral cure silicone, which eliminates a nasty rattly vibrate noise.