Hey, that J1772 cable/handle still has value! Can't repair those handles, so if anyone has a damaged handle, they've gotta replace the whole cable. So, that big ole' cable can still go to some use!

No, unfortunately that model of JuiceBox is not one I support (partly out of protest of Enel). Sorry to catch you up in that, but those are just cooked if their relays burn out.

Digi-Key. AZSR250-2AE-12D is the model of the relay.

You are going to quickly discover why the board and the relay are sold as one assembled part ;)

Or slowly, depending on how quickly you discover how hard the soldering is to do with current-carrying, heat-sinking material that large!

I initially replaced the OEM belt with a regular office rubber band. It worked fine for printing, but it deteriorated and broke by the end of the year. So, when I rebuilt it, I documented the process for this guide.

The motor itself is just a basic DC motor and doesn’t directly control the disc position. Instead, there's an optical encoder around the base of the turntable that handles position sensing and synchronization. As a result, the belt only handles spinning the turntable and has no impact on print accuracy or quality because the encoder ensures everything is aligned on the driven side of the belt.

Long story short: use any belt that fits, spins freely, and doesn't pull too tight. Preferably one that won't decompose back to oil in the next decade or so (so you never have to do this again). On this rebuild, I just grabbed an appropriate-sized belt out of a belt assortment I got off Amzn. Seems the only way to get belts these days.

Unfortunately no, Enel has forced everyone over to the new Enel X app long ago (over a year ago). That means they switched the device communications over to their new server, thus why the old app shows offline. They, unfortunately, seem to be dropping support or care for past products - such is the unfortunate nature of IoT. The app and the device have never talked directly together (except for setting the WiFi network name during setup). The app and the device both talk to the Enel servers and everything you see in the app is an abstraction of what the device is telling the server.

If you or anyone else has interest in development, the "juicepassproxy" project on Github has promise to bring local control back to the boxes, and full details about the protocol are all available there. I'd love to see it mature into a usable replacement for the app/cloud, & bring life back to these boxes!

It could be flipped, yeah. In the original cable, it goes into the board without any flip from the lid to the board. On the replacement, it's flipped (so it flips 180 from the lid to the board). So with yours, start with the cable unplugged and relaxed, see how it rests, and then take the connector and plug it into the board without twisting it.

As long as you never accidentally pulled off the lid and yanked the cable out, and if you haven't pulled the connector out without unlocking it (which can often scratch the delicate contacts and break connectivity), it should work. If you (or someone else reading) had, accidentally pulled out the connector without unlocking it, and scratched the conductive material off the cable, you can sometimes get a second life out of it by carefully trimming-off about 1mm off the tip of the connector, giving it a new contact area when fully inserted & locked.

Thanks for the compliments :) It's not likely I'd be one to make a video though, but others may be on YouTube :)

The Network (blue) LED will never flash on its own (without the power LED) under the software control. That just means your LED strip is damaged/broken (or incompletely/sideways/backwards inserted). It's fairly delicate, and being ripped out of the socket (or peeled off the lid) can easily break the traces, leading to erratic LED indications.

I have a replacement (well, a reproduction - built differently, but fits and works) LED strip available on eBay along-side the replacement relay, if you want.

If not, the box would still work normally. The fact that the power LED doesn't illuminate means it's 100% a fault of the indicator LED board itself, not something the board/firmware would ever indicate on its own.

You don't need to be connected to WiFi for charging to work. There has been a network issue with Enel (who seems to be... unresponsive to issues, to put it one way) and certain models of JuiceBox as of late. My own box, as well as many others, have lost connection to their cloud, which makes them unusable in the app. It shouldn't affect charging, though. You can still use the box, but their... dubious app functionality will no longer be there.

There is effort towards making a local replacement for the Enel services, though, if you look up "juicepassproxy" - it's a bit immature and not a drop-in replacement though, as it needs more developer help to get it over the finish line towards being a full and proper replacement for app scheduling/stats/control. It's meant to work with Home Assistant as a home server - HA is a very broad home-automation system to take control back from the cloud for many devices.

I worry this may be the end for the JuiceNet app...

I ... desoldered and removed [the relay], soldered in the new one

<< The-WHAT.png >>

I have replaced a few relays on boards over the years, but it was... most certainly not something I wanted to repeat. I admire your dedication. That is no easy task. haha. Congrats!

Important distinction - kW from kWh - kW is a rate of speed (how fast you're charging, rated speed of a charger/station, etc = Watts), while kWh is a measure of how much you have charged (energy/range added, capacity of a battery, etc = Watt-hours, "a watt used for an hour"). "k" for kilo = thousand :)

Hard to say why you'd be seeing less kW after switching the relay. It just connects the line to the car. The metering CT should be in the correct direction (you'll know if the app shows 0 or negative kWh in a session). Is the kW you're seeing displayed in the car, or in the app? It's a bit odd a discrepancy, for sure. Hard to really pin down what the cause is, because the box is still signaling the same max 40 amps as before (unless the settings were changed, e.g. settings page set to 39a). Knowing more details about where you're seeing the measurement may help!