That would be the 16GB Motherboard. The 32gb Motherboard is part number IF252-012-2. It is available for purchase here: Galaxy Tab S 10.5 (Wi-Fi) Motherboard

The home button just floats between the screen and the main body. It sits on top of the home button/soft key flex. Place the home button on top of the home button tactile switch that is located on the flex and seat your new screen. Presto! Follow this guide for more detailed instructions on performing a screen repair for the Samsung Galaxy Tab 4, 7.0 Tablet : Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 7.0 Screen Replacement

What phone do you have Mahnoor? We need more information to answer your question.

You should be okay to remove the faulty drive without any issues. As long as the 500gb drive is identified as the bootable volume through startup manager removing the faulty drive shouldn't have any problems.

You definitely damaged the LCD again. Where did you get your screen? Chances are that if you are purchasing your screens off of eBay, Amazon or a similar format that your are purchasing substandard quality parts and this is why they are not as resilient to drops. My suggestion would be to purchase one from a reputable vendor such as this one, iPhone 6 LCD and Digitizer, here on iFixit. Sure! You might say "Man! this is much more expensive than the one I just bought". The fact of the matter is that the LCD assembly is of higher quality and probably comes with a long warranty/guarantee than the "cheap knockoff" you bought in the first place. When it comes to replacing your screen yourself there is still no substitute for quality over price!

This is not possible for a couple of reasons. (1) The FPC connectors are not going to be the same. Throughout the history of the iphone no two models have had the same FPC connectors. If you look at iPhone 3 vs 3gs the connections weren't the same. Then with the iPhone 5/5C/5S, none of those were the same either. Now, I have not seem a screen for the 6S yet but I am confident that the connections between the 6 and 6S are going to have at least a minuscule difference, if not being profoundly different all together. # Even if the connections were EXACTLY the same it is very doubtful that the LCD would work due to programming differences on the logic boards of the iPhone 6 and 6S. Not to mention the difference in hardware (e.g. touchforce 3d Screen on the iphone 6). Not only do you have mechanical differences between the two pieces of hardware, there are also dimensional differences that would make seating the thicker iPhone 6s LCD into the housing of an iPhone 6 an impossibility. Hope my answer helps.

First, You didn't have to remove all of those components just to replace a Power Button Flex on your iPad 2. Unfortunately no two videos are made the same but you did not have to remove all of that to replace the Power Button. The Power Button flex can be easily replaced without removing everything. Apple batteries tend to not want to work after you puncture the membrane around the batteries. This is most definitely the culprit of your current symptoms if everything else was hooked back up correctly. In the future, If you are venturing into a repair that you are unfamiliar with I would suggest finding a minimum of three reputable resources to research before proceeding with an unknown repair.

When doing this repair that digi flex can be tricky. Seat the screen at the top first and then flip it around so that the bottom is lifted enough to fit a spudger between the frame and the digi. Press inward on the digi flex to train it to bend the correct direction and Viola! a properly installed digi. Let us know how that worked for you! Update (10/14/2015): I have to apologize. For some reason I thought you were talking about an iPad mini. For the iPad air I would lay the iPad flat and stand the replacement up at a 90 degree angle along the side of the iPad where the cabling goes through. This will help make sure you cable go into the chasis of the ipad. Then, close it like a book keeping slight pressure on the cable edge so that the cables seat properly.

I have seen this same issue when the LCD Assembly is replaced while the device is still powered on. Make sure you are disconnecting power before you conduct a screen replacement. Also, if your cables aren't connected correctly and you power on the screen it can cause this issue. Hope this helps! Keep us posted!

This comes from a damaged AUX jack. You will have to replace it in order to remedy your symptoms. You will have to be able to solder in order to achieve this replacement but it can be done.