Hello everyone, I have recently gotten my hands on a Mid 2015 15” MBP that was running slow, hoping I could get it fixed...

Hello everyone, a few days ago an Apple TV 4th gen came in and I've been attempting at perhaps fixing it up. Of course, it...

Hello everyone, I just received an iPhone 6 16Gb Gold from a friend yesterday, because I offered him to look into it after...

Hello everyone, I am currently working on replacing a digitizer with broken glass with a new one on an iPad Air 2 32GB...

Hello everyone. In the hopes of getting a good deal online, I found a faulty Nintendo Switch that would not charge, so I...

Hey everyone, so here is my problem: I bought my PS 4 CUH-1216A (the one with the redesigned disk drives) a week back from...

I have recently bought a faulty Samsung Syncmaster F2380 monitor in hope of fixing it and using it for personal purposes....

To anyone curious, there is a brown wire which wraps along the edges of the keyboard and attaches to the board using a screw labeled “PROXY” near the power switch. Avoid taking this keyboard apart, as the whole backside is not only glued, but tampering with the wire in the slightest confuses the device which will cause the backlight to keep coming on and off constantly with no hands present nearby. I had no choice as I opened it up to clean out a spill, ideally it would need to be recalibrated, but good luck with that. I love this keyboard, but the lack of an always-on backlight mode despite countless customer complaints and Logitech acknowledging the issue is just disappointing. The constant misfiring of the backlight drove me crazy as well so I just ended up disconnecting the wire, it still lights up but only while typing.

Dieses Problem ist eher Displaybedingt, es besteht allerdings die Möglichkeit unter Einstellungen -> Allgemein -> Bedienungshilfen -> Displayanpassungen -> Farbfilter das Display mehr oder weniger zum richtigen Farbton zu steuern. Hierbei einfach “Farbstich” wählen, einen orangenen Ton auswählen, und die Intensität größtenteils reduzieren.

So I finally managed to fix the issue. It was not a problem with any missing resistor at all. It turned out to be a bad solder connection on the Mainboard on any of the BGA chips. The troublemaker was most likely the CPU that had a cracked solder joint from the changing temperatures the device was used in by the previous owner, or just a manufacturing problem. Anyways, reflowing the board in an oven at 200C or 369F for a couple of minutes seemed to have fixed the issue. No more freezing after a few minutes, and in fact the device was running for a couple of hours now without freezing. So If anyone comes across a similar issue of where the device freezes after a while, try using popular DIY board reflowing methods using toaster ovens etc. found on the internet or consult a professional from a repair shop and let him reflow the CPU or DRAM for you. If best the whole board because I do not know for sure which chip actually had the issue, but again, it was most likely the CPU. I will be closing this thread...

I believe I have figured it out. Upon inspecting the components even closer again after Conor Bailey above suggested to check for burned caps or similar, I noticed a slight yellow taint to the text ontop of the backlight inverter (as seen on the images below). After desoldering the transformer spool and flipping it around, I could immediately see a part of the spool being covered with black material and that it was a bit burnt. It appears as if the inverter spool somehow got overloaded and burnt its wires at one winding. As the transformer is directly connected to the backlight ports (by tracing the pcb from the transformer), this explains why they turn off as soon as more load is running through (exactly what happens when a signal cable is plugged in -> the backlights need more power and additional backlights get turned on) If you have this or a similar issue, make sure to check the backlight inverter transformer, as they commonly get a burnout on their bottom side! Notice how the windings of the spool...

Das hört sich nach einem defekten Strom- und Ladeverwaltungschip im Gerät an. Ich kenne mich nicht sehr damit aus, habe jedoch gehört, dass diese Chips oft bei diesen Modellen Probleme bereiten und das Laden des Gerätes verhindern können. Als Lösung bietet sich leider nur ein Fachmann an, der die defekten Bauteile auf der Platine erkennen, und ersetzen kann.

Hört sich eher wie ein sich abstürzendes Betriebssystem an, eventuell sitzt der Akkuconnector nicht richtig und der Kontakt bricht ab und zu ab? Höre von diesem Problem leider das erste mal

Können auf der Hauptplatine bzw. der internen Netzteilplatine auslaufende bzw. angeschwollene Kondensatoren gefunden werden? Zum Vergleich links ein defekter Kondensator, rechts ein funktionierender (https://cdn.instructables.com/F0A/LNSH/H...) Falls ja, diese eventuell austauschen