You can install 16GB RAM in the 17" 2011 Macbook Pros if they have been updated to OS-X Mavericks (previously limited to 8GB max). Here are the only 17" models that can support 16 GB: MacBookPro8,3

Actually ALL 2010 (Core 2 Duo) 13" macbooks (white) and Macbook Pros can run 16GB 1066 Ram. I have run it on both of them with no problem (actually I have installed and run 16GB on over 25 different 2010 13" Macbooks and Macbook Pros.) Also as an update. with Mavericks installed, I upgraded and ran 16GB on a 2010 17" Macbook Pro (2.53Ghz i5 with nVidia GT330M 512MB) which were all previously software limited to only 8GB!!

It definitly could be a setting, unless no one else uses this mac but you and you didnt change the settings...? When you press on the trackpad is there a clicking sound? if not the button under the trackpad may have collapsed (If the MacBook has seen a LOT of use) then the topcase will need replaced...

As Mayer stated, it could definitly be the battery connector that is bad, but in my experience it could also be the logic board that is fried... because I have worked on 15-20 MacBooks with this issue and and about 50% were the fried power ciruitry on the logic board. and when a new battery connector was installed and a battery hooked up it fried the new connector... So unfortunately that may be what is wrong...? Hope that is not the case but it may be "a desktop computer" now, If this turns out to be the case a new logic board is required (can be gotten here on ifixit), or a good component based repair tech. (which I am not, alas...)

Yes you can! but YOU DONT NEED TO REPLACE THE UPPER CASE! All you have to do is buy any 13" MacBook Pro keyboard or a late 2008 aluminum MacBook unibody keyboard (backlit model is 2.4GHz) and follow the topcase replacement instructions and while it is apart, remove the keyboard from the underside with very small screws and replace, and viloa! backlit keyboard! (dont forget to plug in the backlight ribbon cable next to the main keyboard ribbon cable to get the backlight functionality!) Hope this answers your question and saves you some money!

You can replace the entire topcase... OR you can just replace the keyboard with a backlit keyboard from a 13" MacBook Pro. or the late 2008 aluminum MacBook unibody... Its an easy fix, all you need to do is use the topcase replacement instructions but take out the keyboard and replace it while you have it apart... Hope this helps! (and it may even save you a bit of money!) OR to just add the backlit film is decently easy if you are accustomed to working on macs! Just follow iFixit's logic board removal guide and the optical drive removal guide and then remove the black metal cross-bracket that sits between the logic board and the optical drive. Then carefully remove the entire thin black plastic backing of the keyboard and then replace with the black plastic film with the backlit model. re-assemble and plug in the backlit ribbon cable into the socket on the logic board and PRESTO! Blacklit keyboard!

The power button is routed through the keyboard ribbon cable. So if the ribbon cable is not COMPLETELY inserted into the slot on the logic board the MacBook will not turn on... I replaced the topcase on a unibody MacBook recently and it wouldnt power on. I have seen several instances of this being the only problem with a MacBook after a repair... The ribbon cable is hard to insert all the way so be careful! Hope this helps!

Any 2.5" SATA internal Hard Drive can be used with this model of MacBook! They are available at a reasonable price pretty much anywhere hardware is sold, including right here on iFixit!

Whenever I have had these symptoms with a MacBook it usually had something to do with flaky RAM or one of the RAM slots went bad (soldering) or liquid damage in the past, or dust in the slots obstructing the contacts when RAM is inserted... It could definitly be something completely different! But I might try insterting one ram stick in the lower slot then trying to power it up, then with the same stick try the top slot, and if this doesnt work try the same thing with the other stick of ram... If none of that makes it boot up properly then you just used the process of elimination to verify that the problem is not the ram sticks or the slots. Hope this helps!

I would try to test the MacBook Pro with a fully charged battery from another 15" MacBook Pro if at all possible (borrow from a friend etc...) If it works perfectly off of the battery then most likely your logic board is just fine and you probably damaged the I/O board... (This board has the magsafe port as well as sound ports and the express card slot) If that is what is damaged, they can be had for a decent price off ebay or from ifxit... Hope this helps!