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There are numerous possibilities here all depending upon the model of the VCR. If there are no belts (as indicated in one update), then the most likely cause here is a defect in one of the gears. It could be a broken tooth or debris in the gear itself. Some VRs use tension bands that could have debris on them as well. Please update this with the make and model. More details can be provided. \Dan
Read moreThis looks to be a standard SPST round rocker switch that should be available from Digikey or Mouser. The key will be its size and mounting method. Your best bet is to remove the existing one so you can measure it and compare to similar looking switches at the vendors mentioned above. The electrical characteristics are likely to be stamped on the switch body. Dan
Read moreFirst of all, the disk would not even attempt to spin if the laser didn’t work. The laser is used to determine that a disk is present. Since the drive failed completely before you attempted a repair. I can assume that the gears were returned to the correct timing again because if they weren’t, the disk would not attempt to spin either. I would look to the spindle motor being the failing part here. You can try to lubricate it, but that rarely works. Look on the little motor itself for a part number and replace it. Note: Replacing this motor will require removing the hub (part that the disk sits on). The height of this is critical for the optics to work. If you haven’t replaced motors like this in the past, look to acquire an entire drive instead. Dan
Read moreFrom a quick scan of the service manual, each set of speakers has its own protection relay and relay driver transistor. I would start looking there. It is possible that the relay drivers are not working or that they are being told NOT to trip the relay because of over current detection. Check those transistors as well (Q165,167, 170, 173,176,179, 205 and 211). See page 44ofthe service manual for the reference (lower right hand corner). The power amp for the front speakers is an IC while the other channels use discrete transistor amp circuits. These too could have a problem. Since all channels except for the front seem to be out, I would look for a missing voltage that supplies all of the discrete amp sections. Dan
Read moreWithout seeing the mechanism itself, I can’t say for sure what the actual problem is for your unit. However, a few possibilities: 1) It sounds like the loading sequence is not completing which will result in the immediate ejection of the disk. 2) If the tray goes in smoothly but does not come out that way, it suggests that one of the gears inside is damaged. In any case, the mechanism must be removed from the unit and examined carefully. I don’t suspect that the gearing is “out of timing” because that would not result in the opening failure as described. A visit to a repair shop may be in order here…
Read moreAs Jayeff pointed out, you don’t list a model number so a detailed response is not possible for you specifically. However, there are a number of common failures that can account for what you see: As these units age, the lubrication of the spindle can get “sticky” and it is possible that this is contributing to the problem. There are 2 main types of designs used for turning the platter, 1) Rubber belt or idler and 2) direct motor drive. In your case, I would suspect that your unit uses a belt. Older units used rubber rings on hubs (idlers), but those were replaced by belted designs many years ago. The Technics units that I have seen have been belt driven or direct drive. As the belt ages, it can either get stiff and slippery or get to the point where it is just goo. In your case I suspect that the belt is a bit stretched and getting slippery. Combine that with the lubrication getting sticky too and you will get inconsistent turning of the platter as you are seeing. This unit needs a little TLC. Remove the...
Read moreThe most common reason for this is incorrect placement within the existing slots. This is most often seen with either the number of sticks is less than slots or there is a mix of stick densities. Be sure that the memory stick(s) are in the correct slots. As an example, lets assume that there are 4 slots. These are usually bank 0 and bank 1 in the following pattern: 0 1 0 1. If you place 2 sticks in the first 2 slots there will be a stick in bank 0 and another in bank 1. Some motherboards like this, some require the backs to be filled. In other words the two sticks should be in slot 0 and 2 to fill in bank 0. Check the motherboard to be sure that the sticks are placed correctly. There are other potential problems, but start as listed above and report back the results.
Read moreThis is a relatively common problem and will require some dis-assembly of the camera to resolve. This is not a repair that I would recommend a homeowner attempt. Yes the tape can be saved without damage. There are a number of “safeties” built in to the mechanism to prevent potential damage to the tape and this is what is causing the current problem. The camera is detecting a problem that could potentially cause the tape to be damaged. The most common being that the camera is not detecting tape movement (rewind operation to put the tape back into the cartridge during an unload) so that it thinks that the tape is still loaded and won’t release the carrier. Locate a service shop that works on camcorders to get this fixed. Expect a labor bill in the $125-$150 range. (charge by the screw and there are many… :) ) Dan
Read moreThe pressure inside the home is usually in the range of 50PSI. Based upon your description, you are correct that the source of the leak is likely to be the rubber grommets and not the valve itself. You are exceeding the plumbing code which limits the pressure to 80.PSI This should be addressed asap. You can try the adjustment screw on the PRV itself to see if it can be released. I believe that once the PRV is replaced, your problem will also go away. Dan
Read moreThis projector looks like it has only a VGA input which will require that you have an adapter that converts the signal from HDMI to VGA. I have used this technique many times for other projectors without fail. You must split the audio from the HDMI if you need to send that elsewhere as well.
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Guide Comments
For non-phone repairs similar methodologies apply. The difference is the cost of the parts. In my business, I have been repairing audio and video devices for over 30 years. I stock all of the common transistors, capacitors and resistors which probably cost me over $500 initially, but saves customers’ time and me space since I can usually provide a quick turn-around time on repairs. Storing component parts takes a lot less room than receivers or cameras. For the model specific parts, I generally order 2. This takes care of the existing repair and allows for another repair with no wait time.
Dan
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