Firstly, there should not be any remedies like putting the phone into the freezer etc etc as allot of these problems happen if either the battery needs replacing and/or the phone was dropped and its sustained a big impact, especially to its back cover, its NOT a software problem! The Android OP system is very reliable and does not cause these sorts of errors and problems, well I haven’t encountered them EVER in my many years of using Android and since my first experience with the Android 2.1 Eclair in the Nexus One. My suggestion (as I’ve suggested above) and especially if the phone was dropped and the back cover is cracked and damaged and this fault is happening is to, open the phone (as instructed by IFIXIT S8 instructions or take the phone to a service centre) and replace the battery with an OEM battery type: – 4000mAh MODEL: EB-BG892ABA Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh. To me, it sounds like the battery is shortening out and its not being charged and holding...

What are the marks? All you are showing is the Wireless Card to M.2, I cant see any “weird marks on the logic board and SSD” The symptoms that you are having are typical for an SSD that is not plugged in properly, its circuitry could be fulty or the SSD is on its way out, which is unusual as god and reputed brands of SSD’s last a long time and are very reliable! I use a Samsung 960EVO and they are lighting fast and very reliable and the Samsung 960PRO are even better and quicker. I suggest that you check how your SSD is pugged in an that are no faults there, firstly, then, see how the cabling to the SSD is to the mainboard. Check all that first before replacing your SSD to a reputable and known brand, that is what I did and never ver had problems.

Firstly the 2015 iMak 5k that you got is not a Desktop that has PCe3 slots that you can pug the GEFORCE GTX 1080 Ti into. Your 2015 iMak 5k is an “All In One” type computer that has the graphics card soldered onto the motherboard and you can’t just pug the GEFORCE GTX 1080 Ti PCIe3 card into it, firstly, its too big and secondly, you don’t have a PCIe3 on you board to plug this card into your board! BUT in saying all this you can do it in another way! You can purchase a “4 Slots PCI-E 1x To 4 PCI Express 16x USB 3.0 External Riser Card Adapter Board” Specification: Bus Port: PCI-E Port Quantity: 4 X PCI-E USB Size: approx. 120 X 66 X 21 mm/4.72 X 2.6 X 0.83" Net Weight: approx. 41 g Gross Weight: approx. 73 g Package Size: approx. 130 X 90 X 25 mm/5.12 X 3.54 X 0.98" Supported OS: DOS, Linux, Windows XP/7/8/10 Included: 1 X 1 to 4 PCI-E Adapter Card 1 X Package Box You can purchase this from either eBay or Amazon and also buy a case for this card to incase the “Riser Card” and plug the GEFORCE GTX 1080 Ti...

Firstly, the Micromax Q372 has been a problematic phone right from the start, there have been many complaints about its cameras back and front, its charging socket. To me, as I've done many replacements of touch and lcd's you must have done something wrong and/or shorted something out, while replacing the touch/lcd, undo your work and try to reinstall the touch/lcd again and see if you missed any connections

First, make sure that your firewall is not blocking your internet connection (this does happen) make sure your driver is not corrupted and reinstall it again, if that dosen’t work, your card could be loose in its socket and/or damaged. if damaged, replace the WiFi mini/PCIe or similar card and if you haven’t got BT (Bluetooth) get a WiFi/BT card that I’m sure is available for your laptop, they are very cheap. I had this problem with my Acer Aspire 5750 and I replaced the original WiFi 2.4G only card with a WiFi 2.4/5G & BT 4.0 card that added the Bluetooth as an extra option to this 8 year old laptop, now. It works perfectly and I have BT also. As an additional suggestion (that I’ve done to my 8yrs old laptop) is that they are very upgradable (the Intel gen 2,3,4’s) as the gen 5’s onwards are all soldered on CPU’s and can’t be upgraded. These laptops can be upgraded at a fraction of the cost to what a new laptop costs. Example, you can upgrade to better and more capacity and/or faster e.g. from a spinner...

If replacing the battery dosen’t solve your problem then you could have a problem with the voltage regulator if your battery dosen’t hold charge. Try to see if that is not faulty and replace it.

Firstly ‘Ravi’ or anyone that has the 5750Z, 5750 and the 5750G laptops today in 2018 lol as I would strongly suggest that they increase the RAM on especially the 5750Z with its 2GB standard RAM to 8Gb as 2Gb is really low and useless amount of RAM! The 5750Z as do the 5750 and 5750G support a max of 8GB RAM (to as far up as 1600MHz of DDR3 SDRAM-204 pins) as then these laptops will work much better and they would have no problems with not “work smoothly and comfortably without any resultant slow speeds”. But, and this is what I would suggest (to anyone that has a 5750Z, 5750, 5750G today) is that they can also replace the spinner HDD to an SSD drive and their processors e.g. the 5750Z “Intel Pentium B940/2 GHz” (that the 5750Z comes standard with) and replace it with a min i7-2640M (2 core 4 threads) or a 2760QM (4 core 8 threads) or even higher spec CPU’s of the 2nd Gen Intel’s, especially for the Aspire 5750G, that comes with the NVIDIA GeForce GT 520M graphics, as the 5750Z (and the 5750, 5750G) all...

See the topic here ‘My fan stop working and my lappy over heated’:

Its a simple job, you can buy a complete palm rest with the touchpad circuit as a combo or the touchpad board separately (on ebay) and take the top cover off and/or just unscrew the old touchpad board and replace it., its held on by screws.

If you have the problem that “jamilahmadlutfi231208” then “STOP” using your laptop immediately, as you will cook your processor and damage the laptops mainboard!!! To replace the fan you have to completely remove the mainboard (which is quite an extensive job) here is a really good guide, its titled “ACER ASPIRE 5750 5750G take apart, disassemble, how to open, video disassembly” its at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maoRU9Nh... Hope this helps everyone that needs to open their Aspire 5750’s. Btw I’ve done this many times as I’ve replaced my HDD to an SSD, my mainboard to the 5750G’s NVIDIA GT 540M board and its more extensive fan/cooler and I’ve also replaced the bottom casing (as the old one broke at where the top/screen hinges attach) and also I have replaced the processor to an i7-2860QM, the WiFi card to a WiFi/BT 2.4/5G 4.0Bt card and the keyboard also, as you can see, I’ve done some major surgery to my 8 years old Aspire 5750 and it works unbelievably fast, all that I’ve listed are a great...