Please refer to my previous answers regarding remotes - also the one I just answered on the remote that only turns the device on but no other functions after 30minutes. This tells how to test & fix troublesome remotes

This is most commonly the result of the magnetron that is no longer functioning. But there are some other possible components worth inspecting namely the fuse, power diode, capacitor, transformer, etc. On mine it was just the magnetron connector which had the small rf suppressor capacitor shorted out to ground. A u/s magnetron was obtained from a domestic repair shop and I just swapped connectors (which are cheap to buy) but not so easy to replace. Please Note: If unfamiliar with electronics/high-power electrics, it is not advisable to fix it yourself. Lethal voltages are involved via the main capacitor and if not properly discharged can cause serious injury or a fatal electric shock. Therefore, testing of components and experience in component replacement/ modification is a pre-requisit for this kind of diy job.

If you regularly use a fabric softener, this might be the source of the slimy crud. This also over time leaves a residue in your softeners dispenser. There is no easy way of removing this 'plaque'. I opened my dispenser and manually scrubbed it clean. If it's easy enough, replace the pipe. Hot water & vinegar may be of some use. My best advice is after cleaning/replacing, whatever, is not to use the softener. (Just do your own test) and see if it really de-statics your washing. It contains many different chemicals to add fragrance and other so-called benefits to your wash but these machines are not self-cleaning and all added chemicals will eventually precipitate onto surfaces such as rubber or plastic. I have stopped using softeners and find no difference in final outcome - today's washing machine detergents even add fragrance to your washing.

Maybe start suspecting the remote. Even if it powers the unit to ON, the rest of the functions could be faulty because of insufficient power. (I assume you tested/replaced the batts for a start) Each function has its own 'code' transmitted as a series of IR pulses. If the batts are fine, there's a simple way of testing if the remote is transmitting on all buttons: This works with most standard IR remotes: If available, use an old cellphone, (not the modern 'Smart' type) and point the camera lens at the remote's transmitter 'led'. Now push the various buttons. If it is transmitting, a small white ldot will be seen on the phone's screen. (You will not be able to detect any 'codes' as these are too rapid - only a white dot which may or may not appear to flicker.) Please note: Some remotes may emit an IR frequency (or be filtered) so that your phone's camera can't pick it up. If it does however, detect a dot when the power-on button is pressed, but not other buttons, the problem lies with the remote. To remedy...

See my previous answer regarding non scrolling mouse wheels

Please refer to an explanation I gave some time back on the subject of microwave ovens and magnatrons. This was easy to measure and to fix. The problem lay in the mmagnatron connector where one of the two small capacitors had shorted to ground.

You say you got 'a replacement' but do not specify for what: a replacement for the 'middle click' sounds strange. Two things can go wrong here. (1) The middle click not working: If you open the mouse you'll find the wheel shaft rests on a small micro switch. Determine if it seats properly and if you can hear a 'click' sound when pressed. (2) If the wheel doesn't scroll, here's what I found on mine: A plastic wheel with a soft plastic/rubber 'tyre' (or tire in American spelling) covering it. My tire was slipping on its wheel - both very smooth - and the tire wasn't a tight fit any longer. I roughened up the wheel a bit and dabbed a drop of super glue on the wheel bead then re-fit the tire - problem solved.

I found lots of 'How to apply' (for example Loctight - https://www.loctiteproducts.com/products...-pdp.html/loctite-threadlocker-blue/SAP_0201OHL029W4.html) screw securing liquids via Google. It explains what type for what jobs, how much to apply, etc. An important factor is that both the screw and threaded screw 'socket' or nut should be completely clean and grease/oil/etc free. If possibly contaminated, first clean.with meth spirits, rubbing alcohol, acetone or similar. Here's a nice video on the subject. https://youtu.be/uvrgDD0qHNU?si=117uumff...

With the limited info in the question and the fact that you say smoke noriced at the top where the fan is indicates there's a problem with the power supply. The p/s has a radial fan and most of the high current wiring is here. Therefore, be careful using the PC because of a fire hazard. Rather just open the side panels and ascertain for certain where the smoke is coming from. The P/S unit is easily spotted. Another possible source is the CPU which is also fan-cooled and which gets very hot, although protection circuits ought to switch it off before it gets hot enough to smoke.

By drivers I assume you mean the headphone speakers. It is most unlikely that this is were the problem lies. You mention drivers (plural) in your question therefor I take it that both distort. For both of them to be faulty will be rare. I don't know if you have listened to each 'driver' individually and found that both distort or o ly one. The common factor here then is what 'drives' the drivers. In other words, what are you using as the input to the headphones. Is it an amplifier, a stereo, a Bluetooth receiver, a cellphone, a tablet, a laptop, etc. Depending on the latter's output impedance (ohms) and power (watts), and your phone's equivalent specs, there may be a mismatch. Too much power into speakers rated at a lower power will cause distortion. Some speakers have high impedance (in the kilo-ohm range) input needs while others have quite low (4-50 ohm) input needs. A mismatch here will cause distortion. For example a high input impedance load (speaker) fed by a low impedance device will require more...