Failure of the USB-C board on the Yoga 910 and other Lenovo laptops is very common. Symptoms include not charging, not...

I've had a weird problem that I've now solved so want to share the solution. Surface laptop was starting but had what...

I have a basic car jumper pack. The solder connection of one of the rectifiers broke. I can resolder but don't know where...

I have a surface laptop, Gen 1 - Model 1769. I received it with a fresh windows install but keyboard and most drivers were...

Acer nitro vn7-791g This laptop won't post or display. Symptoms are: powers up and fans turn on fans respond to...

I have a garage door opener. It appears to be an MSW GD-800 as per this link...

I have an acer Aspire A717-72G that won't turn on. I've identified a burnt out chip that looks like some form of power IC....

I was repairing a water damaged Kindle Paperwhite and upon powering on after the clean i got a repair code 2. I isolated...

Samsung ATIV tab 500T won’t boot. It enters BIOS immediately. Trying to boot off USB results in a screen refresh then...

Can anyone tell me what this inductor does and where I can get a replacement?

My previous diagnosis was incorrect. The screen was not the issue at all. Amazingly it was what looks like some sort of sensor flex near the audio jack. Picture shows the flex connected to the side frame. With this connected the screen has issues. Disconnect it and it works fine. I suspect this is a dock sensor that tells the surface it is connected to external display or dock and for some reason disabled the screen and keyboard.

I have isolated the problem to a faulty screen. I don't know why it exhibits the odd display driver fault but after trying another screen everything works fine. Note that the touch and display are connected to motherboard via the same cable so there's no way to isolate touch problems from the display without pulling display apart.

A blinking LED on lots of devices normally means the device has a known fault of some type. I imagine you’ve googled a solution and tried unplugging overnight then restarting. The main board might flash LED if it’s not getting enough power or if there is a short somewhere. I’m picking it’s one or more of: PSU, Main Board or LED strips. Because you get a flash of LED backlights when plugging in I’d suggest there is a short in one of the power supply or LED strips, possibly a burnt out LED which is extremely common. Taking screen off to inspect backlights is a pain so let’s try and diagnose without having to pull too much apart. 1) Unplug TV and disconnect LED backlights from power supply. See if TV turns on. If so, you may be able to put TV in bright enough light to see if the LCD is working and a picture is displayed. If it turns on then problem is backlights and you’ll need to pull apart to replace them. 2) Step 1 should render step 2 unnecessary but I’ve already written it :). Test for a short in the LED...

It sounds like a motherboard problem. It’s likely there is a dead component (probably MOSFET) that prevents the battery from charging. It could also be the ‘switch’ battery pin on the motherboard is grounded which is why the laptop thinks battery is still connected. From what you’ve said I’d say the charging IC is dead as that would stop the charging and tell computer incorrectly that battery is still connected. However, I’m just going off limited info so it might be something easier to fix. From your description it seems the battery is not charging at all but the laptop can still run of mains power. Is that correct? (1) As with most fixing, let’s try simple, easy and reversible things first before doing anything drastic. Try and enter your bios with battery connected and see if there is any battery monitoring tools in there. Repeat with battery disconnected and see if laptop still thinks the battery is present. This will determine whether the battery detection circuit is working properly or not. (2) Next...

Burning smell means something burnt out, probably due to short circuit or faulty component, e.g. inductor, capacitor. You’ll have to dissassmble and look for anything that looks burnt out, look for cracks in components or brown marks or other discolouration. If you’re lucky, whatever it was that shorted was not on the motherboard and so repairs could be relativley cheap. If home button not working is the only problem then perhaps swap out the home button for another and check. Repeat for taptic engine, lightning port, speaker and other components around that area of phone. If your previous lightning port wasn’t working and installing new one caused a short there may be a problem on mainboard that’s causing a short in the lightning port circuit. Check the connector on motherboard and components around that area. Does new lightning port still work after the short?

Pictures would help us assess. A screw driver was probably far too narrow to remove a battery. Also far too rigid. I use a broad thin opening tool. like this Work your way around the battery prying and applying only enough pressure to slowly release adhesive. I apply pressure and wait for 10-20sec as adhesive slowly pulls apart. Move onto next area and repeat around entire battery where possible. A small bend is not normally fatal to batteries, just bend back straight and it should be fine. I am however concerned you saw a spark from somewhere on the battery. If that spark came from the battery itself then it will be damaged and you shouldn’t use it. If spark came from the motherboard connector touching something metal then it might still be ok if you’re lucky. Batteries aren’t normally very expensive but finding good third party batteries is difficult.