There's not a for sure way to tell without looking at the boards, but generally the higher voltage would pop a fuse then stop. I think keurig has a thermal fuse but not an inline one so skip that. Next would be the transformer. So you would for sure need a replacement transformer. Step down 120v to 14.5v. You can easily search for a k55 replacement transformer on any parts or auction site. About $10. If you're lucky and it didn't stay plugged in long that's all you'll need to get it going. There may still be some damage to the power board and possibly the main board as well. But it's not unreasonable to think it stopped with the transformer. Look for burn marks on the boards. If worse comes to worse or to cover all your bases buy the transformer, power, and main boards. You should be able to get all 3 for $15-$40. I'd visually inspect everything, get a used $10 or less transformer and try that first. If that didn't work I'd buy the whole thing used and swap the parts. Keurigs are a nightmare to take apart,...

Did you uninstall the battery and reinstall it in Device manager with the latest drivers after you changed it?

Right away it sounds like a bad cap. You'll probably have to replace the power board or have it refurbished. It's common for those to have power/led combo boards and for 1 or 2 of the smaller caps on the led side to pop and leave the power side unaffected. It is also possible that it has a separate led driver and backlight inverter. In which case I'd look at those but it's been my experience that the ones with the led backlight boards separate from the power supply end up needing new led strips. This definitely sounds like a hardware issue and the back will have to be removed for troubleshooting.

Does the red light by the power button give you a code by flashing a certain number of times? It sounds like you'll need a replacement board. Models like yours usually don't have individual led driver or backlight inverter boards. Those are probably part of the power supply board. You can take the tv apart and remove the screen to access the led strips. You can test each light with a multimeter and should read 3 volts at each one. Sometimes the connections on those strips are bad and you can fix them with a soldering iron. It's a bad connection/component on one of those. You can inspect the capacitors of the power supply/led board for visable damage just by opening up the back and using a flashlight. They're will be larger caps grouped closer together on half the board which is the power supply side. So you'll want to look at the smaller spread out ones on the opposite side. They're usually 10-35v ones usually blue, black or brown tubes with an x on the tops. Look at that x and check if it's puffed up....

Settings, find reset network settings, go to updates update profile, update prl, update software. Reset device.

If it's new it's probably just trying to update. Turn it on, ma!e sure it's co nected to the internet and automatic updates is enabled. Start up windows update and let it go. Check on it from time to time to make sure it's not waiting for you to hit restart. This can sometimes go on for a couple of days.

Turn your device off. Cut a plastic qtio in half at a 45 degree angle. Stick the plastic pointed part in the charger port. Back and forth back and forth. Apply a tiny bit of 91% or higher iso alcohol to the tip and repeat back and forth. Blow out with compressed air. Repeat process to clean contacts on your cable. 70% that's it. 15% of the time you need a new chrager, 15% battery replacement. That's been my experience.

Try a phone call and see if you sound muffled or faint. Shoot a video using the front camera and check for sound quality. Them shoot a video using the rear camera and check for sound quality. If those are good and it is just affecting calls and voice recordings then it is likely a matter of the bottom mic got misaligned or has dirt or something stuffed in the small hole. Make sure there aren't any stickers in the way, no dirt or other debris and most importantly it is aligned up perfectly with the mesh and little plastic piece inside. You'll want to remove the screen for that. If it's a different mic then it's probably a matter of the little gold's contacts not limit up right. Alternatively a flex cable could have been folded too sharp or it might need a replacement bottom mic or dock. Also try hard resetting the phone (holding down home and power buttons for 10-15 seconds), go to settings, general, reset all settings, and update to newest ios. to cover software issues. this helps.

From what I can see, it looks like you've got a lifted pad there where it says pwr. I'd suggest taking an exacto knife and carefully scraping the coating off the traces on each side then apply a tiny bit of fluid and wider your jumper wire right over the pad from one trace to the other. Hopefully that's making sense. Following your red arrow you'll see the missing gold pad. I'd recommend cleaning that area with some 91% iso alcohol as well. It almost looks like water or moisture got in there. Hope this helps.

Macbooks usually have that one hand opening I think. So your hinges could be binding and need replaced. Or they have come loose, the screws could be slightly stripped but if your comfortable enough opening it up remove the screws keeping track of where they go, remove the frame around the screen and first off check every screw connecting the hinges to the top and bottom and make sure they're tight with no play at all. Then there should be a screw goin through the middle connecting the top and bottom of the hinges together. It'll have washers, spring, etc and usually is a hex head or different type of screw head then the rest. Take a fine tip marker first and draw a small line from right to left across the head of the screw and the washers etc after it. This is your reference line so you can always start over. Loosen the screw very little at a time until it opens smoother. You should not have to fully rotate these screws even half way around. Very little goes a long way. This is from my experience with...