I want to take apart the Altec Lansing T612 in order to give a thorough rinse. The housing is very sticky - which might be...

Mine is MacOSX High Sierra, 16GB RAM, 17" late 2011, ATI hardware disabled by PROM reprogramming - (again) working...

The guide so far deals with opening the device by heat gun and changing cameras. But what about the battery? Is it glued...

Thank you ALL for taking the time to assist the rest of us!

you COULD try hot gluing the connector - fix it in place with gaffer tape, and one dash of gun glue at a level plane with the bottom of the connector bowl. If you are hearing crackling noises also, when connecting your 30 pin i-device, it could be the connector, but could also be interference. Google it, then.

I have used TG Pro for some years now - and I keep on migrating it onto newer (an older machines). For me it is the most comprehensive and elegant solution - which is continually developed, even if newer Macs are more precise in their cooling abilities.

The answer is: A 2.5" PATA (=IDE) disk. Today (2012) they are somewhat more expensive dollar to GB than SATA and newer disk types, but they can be aquired most places, and often cheap, if they are used... You could also buy an SSD (Solid State Disk) to minimize power consumption and build-up of heat in you Apple TV 1st gen. 64GB IDE MLC cost btw. $50 and 100. Possibly avoid the Chinese direct-to-consumer SSDs found on Amazon in bundles - Transcend's SSDs are also made in China, but at least you have a place to complain, if your's stop working. SSDs of the type MLC are slower than SLCs, but at about 1/3 of the price of a type SLC. Cloning your old hard drive onto an SSD takes two partitions on the SSD, and this writing back and forth between the two partitions on the SSD are perceived by some as slower than using a spinning hard drive.