Hi @cavendish , I’m not going to say that the next procedures are the more recommended ones, but when I’m desperate, they are my last resource and sometimes they work :) I’m considering that you have not broken the head of the screw, so the driver head fits properly to the screw head shape. Often, it’s a torque’s problem. When I use my tiny precision screwdrivers, the torque I can apply with my hands is not sufficient. Then, I use my pliers so I can apply more torque. With the other hand I push longitudinally to the screw so I avoid damaging its head. But sometimes, the problem is that during the assembly, some glue has been used to ensure the screw will never move. When this is the case, you can try few things: (1) Heat up the item to 40~50 ºC to try to melt and softener a bit the glue. Depending on the kind of glue, this might work out or not. Be carefull because this can melt the case if it’s plastic! (2) Breking the glue by impact: Hit the screw longitudinally. Put the screwdriver in position and with...

Considering nothing burnt when you connected to the computer the first time, there are few things you can try. Biggest problem I think is that even you think you have cleaned it out, it might be wet yet in some parts of the electronics. The easiest thing you can do is to let it dry for days. You can try few things… (1) Put it inside a container and dig it into rice. The rice will take the moisture from the interior. (2) Put it inside a sealed bag with lots of silica bags. As the rice, the silica will take the moisture from the interior. (3) Put it in a warm place so it reachs 30~40 ºC. For example you can put it in contact with direct sun light for some hours, let it warm a bit to later put it back in shade. Repeat this steps several times during several days. Be careful and don’t let it get too hot. Don’t even consider to put the keyboard in the oven or the microwave!! Once you are completely sure the keyboard is dry, try to connect it again to the computer. If you are lucky and nothing is broken, it will...

This shouldn’t be a problem as I understand that you are trying to load a personal copy of a legitimate and genuine purchased game. Try loading your original game and the problem will vanish :) However, if your question was more oriented to know about electronics, I may do some extra comments. These chips try to bypass the copy/counterfeit protection techniques from the console AND the game. Depending on the chip you have installed and/or which games you are trying to load. You may find that there are certain games you will never be able to load if the game’s protection technique vs. chip’s exploit tehcnique don’t match. Moreover, a mismatch between the region between the copy you are trying to load and your region console may also affect.

Hi @datooooooo , Open the speaker and take a detailed picture of the broken knob. Most important is if it has any letters printed on it. Only with that information we would be able to find a replacement. Alternatively, if you already figured out which part it is, we could help you to find a replacement part! Update (02/25/2022): Ummm unfortunately this is not enough to find a proper replacement. The R103 might mean 10 kOhm. Typically, the last number means the number of ceros you add to the first numbers, but this is not always followed by all manufacturers. Having a quick look in one of my fav distributors https://www.mouser.co.uk/c/passive-components/potentiometers-trimmers-rheostats/potentiometers/ There's one that matches in shape and color: https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/414...-2565491.pdf It sheems the metal shaft and the footprint are similar to the ones on the pictures. However, before you can conclude if this is a suitable part, there are other features on the potentiometer that needs to...

Hi @sqwerks , I cannot help with any guidance as I don't have that controller. However, that fix will require buyng a new joystick and replace it using a soldering iron. That fix is neither easy nor cheap if you don't have the required equipment. Moreover, it is dangerous to be done by a kid without adult supervision. Best is that you accept and learn from your mistakes. These things happens. Be honest, tell your dad, and ask your parents for their support to repair the broken joystick.

Hi @rish , assuming you are using Windows 10 or Windows 11, this is a software problem after some recent windows updates. Indeed I got the same problem, and I have seen similar complaints in the community very recently. So this shouldn’t be a hardware issue. I fixed the problem reinstalling the driver of the sensor. I did the next steps, I hope this can fix your issue too: (1) Open the “Device manager” (2) Look for “Biometric devices”, then do a right click on the fingerprint sensor that is not working well. (3) Click on “Uninstall device” and accept the prompt message. (4) Restart your computer. At start-up, windows will detect that fingerpint sensor has no drivers and it will install the most recent ones. This worked to me, so I hope it does so too for you. Good luck! ;)

Hi @starkiller4k, This a problem with the back light of your NDS. It could be either the back light itself, or something related with the luminosity control circuit. I never had to fix any similar on my NDS so I cannot tell you for sure, but if I were you I would try first replacing the lower screen to see if that solves your issue. The other option would be to debug the motherboard and check on the screen controller if the line that controls the luminosity of the screen changes with the time. If this happens, then you may conclude that the issue is with the screen luminosity control circuit, rather than with the screen itself.

This kind of soldering on battery leads are done in factory, where in theory, they know what is safe and what can damage the assembled parts. Soldering directly on the battery leads is NEVER a good idea because of the high temperatures involved in the process. Either you want to replace the battery, or you want to modify the way it is connected in the assembly, you better manipulate the wires on the PCB side.

I have seen similar problems in a laptop because of a damaged flex connector. These tiny configuration are quite fragile and are not meant to be mate/demated many times. Check carefully the leads on the flexi connector. Use microscope or magnification lenses to see if the leads are still on place. They get blended quite easily if forced when mating the connector. Make few macro prictures so we can help you to discern whether that is the problem.

Hi, How many fuses did you check and how did you check them? Do not only check them visually but use a multimeter to check continuity, as many times a blown fuse might look ok. How did you check the standby voltage? Using a multimeter? Where did you measured them and what did you get? On the AC or DC side? Maybe both? Have you checked ALL areas of your TV’s boards and are you sure that there’re no signs of burnt components? Have you checked the aerial connector area? It is usually shielded with a metallic box to avoid EMI and EMC issues. If the lightning surge was close enough to your home aerial, the static might have blown some of the RF electronics withing the EMI cans, and possibly propagate the overvoltage to the rest of the TV damaging more areas of the electronics. Some times I’ve seen the RF receiver boards as independent PCBs. Check that you didn’t miss the inspection for burnt components on any board, and have a look inside the EMI cans if possible. Good luck! Edit: I see you have updated...