Hi folks! I have a Mid 2012 MacBook Pro with Retina display (A1398, EMC 2512) that experienced some liquid damage. A small...

From the model number you gave us, this appears to be the part you'll need: https://www.amazon.com/pcspareparts-Replacement-Digitizer-Rct6303w87dk-Rct6303w87/dp/B014AV2DQ8 cheers

What are you trying to replace the power button of?

It's hard to tell from the pictures (They're a little too low res to differentiate the pixels) but it looks like it may be an issue with the LCD display itself. GPU failure would result in perfectly straight lines, but since this appears more 'organic' in nature, I have my chips on the layers within the display assembly coming apart. Do what Mayer said and plug the laptop into an external display. If there are no distortions on the external display, you will need to replace the display module.

Lualejandro, Unfortunately, yes, you will have to replace the entire display assembly. The digitizer, glass, and LCD are fused together, so if any of them fail, you have to replace the whole thing. I would recommend picking up a repair kit on iFixit, which should have everything you need to do the repair. I'd also recommend covering the display in packing tape (the clear, smooth stuff) before attempting display removal. Check out this guide for a step-by-step procedure for replacing your display: iPhone 6 Screen Replacement Hope this helps! Bunker

Thank you for your help, Reece! I'll go ahead and clean up my question and provide a specific answer to my question below. If you're attempting this repair, I highly recommend reading the board view and schematic yourself (links at bottom of post). I was able to find both a correct board view and schematic. From that, the component values are: R9000- 0 Ohms (Just use a jumper) R9001- 1M Ohms r9002- 1M Ohms C9028- 0.1uF R9003 - 1M Ohms C9029 - 0.1 uF All of these components have a package type denoted [0201]. NOTE: Please see the board view and PDF for tolerance, temperature rating, and dielectric composition, ect. Openboardview(open source board view software): http://openboardview.org Schematic and board view for 820-3332:http://www.apple-schematic.se/board/820-3332/

It took me about 20 minutes to figure out how to remove the end caps, and about 5 seconds to remove the other one once I figure it out. I think the best thing you can do is take a very small flathead screwdriver and try to wedge it in between the end cap and the hinge. Then, just gently and rhythmically rock back and forth, prying up more and more each time. I was able to remove both end caps with only a couple scratches on the paint near the edges. But hey, cosmetic wear is worth it if the display works, right? ;) Thanks for the help, guys!