Amazing response, thanks Bill. Not offended! Worth checking, haha. But I am certain I installed the new pump because it looks completely different to the old one.

LG seems to have updated the design since my washer was manufactured. I checked the pump part number (4681EA2001T) matched in the repair manual for this washer (WM2016CW). Can’t post images here but fascinating to see how different they look. I thought I ordered the wrong part initially (but it fits perfectly).

Thanks for the help, I’ll check for a pencil or something like that in the body. It would certainly explain it.

I see a bunch of folk on another forum are complaining about this issue: that impellers on LG drain pumps come loose after only a short. Some people have replaced their pumps half a dozen times, or more. Wild.

forum.appliancepartspros.com/posts/t576500-lg-washer-eats-drain-pumps

However it seems that the issue normally happens only after at least a few months of use. For me, the impeller broke after only one load. Not sure what that means.

I replaced my drain pump, which seemed to work perfectly and solved my 0E error code. Unfortunately after only one full load, the (new) drain pump was broken, and in the same way: loose impeller (motor still spins when active). Do you have any idea why this would happen?

As far as I can tell the drain hose is completely clear, and it’s installed at about 40” above the bottom of the unit, well below the 96” max LG requires.

Perhaps the replacement unit I bought was bad, or I installed it incorrectly somehow, but these explanations seem unlikely to me.

I’m starting to even consider electrical quality as a possible cause. We’ve had our distribution transformer repaired recently by the power company, so significant and sustained over voltage on our mains is not unprecedented. I wonder if that could cause the drain motor to work far too hard, causing it to break.

I’ve ordered a second replacement, but I’m nervous I’ll just destroy a it if I install it without knowing what happened to the first unit.

Any ideas?

Aha! The "Apple part number" from step 11 is a great clue! Searching for these cards by this part number yields many online sellers.

There were three cards that could go in this model:

* NVIDIA GT120 (256Mb): part #661-4991

* NVIDIA GT130 (512Mb): part #661-4990

* ATI Radeon HD 4850 (512Mb): part #661-5135

The ATI card is generally marginally cheaper than the equivalent NVIDIA.

I found the adhesive (or fit) quite strong. Pushing on the bottom part of the glass created a small gap at the top, which I could fit a craft knife (xacto blade) into. This made it easier to carefully lever the glass out for me.

The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.

Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.

I found using the opening tool to wedge up (toward the case) from between the metal bit (which is a plate) and the dock socket was the easiest way to do this.

I found I had to gently pry the retainer open with a craft knife (xacto knife?) as the plastic opener tool was too blunt or soft to get any purchase...

Any tips for selecting a replacement gfx card? How can I be sure my purchase will work?