If the hot-air treatment works, I guess it's because your problem came from use of Lead-Free Solder in manufacturing. The world electronics assembly industry was forced to switch in mid-2000's from tin/lead solder to Lead-Free (mostly just tin) Solder. That led to many quality problems. Not enough research had been done. Lead-Free Solder is very particular about how it's used and treated, or you end up with bad joints, or short circuits (over time, from tin whiskers). The industry eventually learned, after a few years. Unfortunately, some products made during the mid-to-late-2000's that had passed QC and got shipped out, then failed after some years of use and stress (thermal cycling=turning on/off, humidity, bending, etc.). Lead-free solder melts around 425 deg-F. But a lower temperature like 300 deg-F can solve problems - relieve stressed joints, close small cracks. This is what the internet videos are doing -- with a hair-dryer or oven. Tin whiskers is another possible problem. To melt tin whiskers --...

I opted to not do a the full tear-down.

The steps I skipped:

18 - No liquids. I used an old credit card to carefully separate the ribbon cable from the battery. I applied a very thin layer of common alcohol on the edge of the card.

24-40, 42-46, 48-50, 52-62 - skipped the full tear-down. Loosened the logic board by removing just its screws (Step 47).

That was enough to wiggle out the battery circuit board & cables out from the in between the logic board and case.

Alternative:

63 - I jumper ahead to this step. I started out with floss method, but it couldn't reach the deepest areas under the cells. I then used a credit card to loosen the deepest parts of the adhesive. Before inserting it under each cell, I applied a very thin layer of common alcohol on the edge of the card.

Needs more cautions:

20, 21 - Add warning about hidden washers that will spill out. They are easily lost. The mention at step 22 is too late in process! Could work over a white tray, if you don't have a magnetic surface.

This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!