@gvidob I’d use a common soldering iron with a small tip. You will need flux and solder to replace it. If you have not soldered on circuit boards before you will have to practice on some old boards first. Considering to have somebody do it for you is ok too. Yes it is possible that your camera overheated. Once you replace the switch, change the battery and then try again. Let us know how it works out.

Hi @tmr1975 ,

There are 6 models in the LRA08PZU1 series i.e. LRA08PZU110, -111, -112, -113, -114 &-116, but they all appear to have the same wiring diagram. Although looking at the parts list it appears that models -110 to -113 use the same main board and control (display) board and models -114 & -116 use the same boards but they are different boards to the the boards used by the other models.

Here’s an image of the wiring diagram for the -110 model which may help.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Looking at the diagram (as minimal as it is) it seems as though everything is controlled by the control (display) board controlling the main board. It appears as though relays are used to control the power to the compressor, the fan and the heating element.

Can you hear if any of the relays “click” when trying to start the A/C?

Is the compressor humming at all as if trying to start? If so it may be the start/run capacitor that is the problem

You may have to open up the A/C and visually inspect the main board for any obvious problems and then start testing from there. The wiring diagram at least shows the connectors where the power comes into the board and also where all the peripheral components are connected to.

Here’s a link to a supplier that shows the parts for a -110 model which may help as it shows where everything is.

If it is determined that the problem is on the main board (part #37) and not the control board (part #8) I cannot find a schematic for the main board which would help to isolate it further but its part number is 5304483215

The same main board is used in models -110 to -113 but a different board part # 5304496429 is used in models -114 & -116.

I can’t find a schematic for the control board either - part #5304482936 (model numbers -110 to -113) and part #5304496261 (models -114 & -116)

All the suppliers linked were just to show what the cost of the part may be. There are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search online for the part number only to get results.

Hopefully this is of some help.

Hi,

iFixit does not do repairs.

People can offer advice on how to fix it yourself.

You may have to open it up and check for any obvious problems such as a loose charge port etc.

Have you tried a different compatible charger or checked that the charge port is Ok and not blocked etc, you didn’t say?

Unfortunately there are no iFixit repair guides for an Oculus Quest but there is an Oculus Quest 2 Disassembly guide, which may be of some help.

Moderator

Hi,

How many wires are connected to the original fan, 2, 3 or 4?

If the original has more than two wires then the fan control circuit uses the other one or two wires (depending on how many) to control the fan. One would be for a temperature sensor and the other would be a rpm sensor. Either or both are mounted in the fan itself. If the control circuit doesn’t detect either (or both) then most probably it won’t supply power to the fan

You may have to try something like this. (if 4 wire) Just ensure that the wires if they’re the same colours as the original fan wires go to the same pin connections.

If the original fan is only a 2 wire fan, then check if the replacement fan is OK by testing it with an Ohmmeter to ensure that there is continuity through the fan motor.

Hi,

With the screen connected, turn the laptop on and once it has booted into Windows try shining a torch at an angle close to the screen and check if you can detect any images at all. They will be very faint if they are there, so trying this in a darkened room may help.

If there are images on the screen then there is a backlight problem with the screen. Either a faulty screen or more likely the power supply to the backlights is missing, possibly due to a blown backlight power fuse caused by the repair.

Looking at the iFixit Microsoft Surface Book Screen Replacement guide it fails to mention that the battery should be disconnected from the systemboard when replacing the screen.

I think that it is always wise to disconnect all power from electronic devices if you are working on them, unless testing of course. This is so as to minimize any problems caused by touching things that you shouldn’t or tools slipping etc with power being present on the board.

There is always power available at certain points on the motherboard even when the laptop is switched off. The power button is not a power isolating button. Its function is to signal the BIOS/OS what the user’s intentions are. Think of the laptop as being in an extremely low power state when it is off and not that it is disconnected from any power i.e. the battery

I can’t see it in the guide but check near the screen cable connector on the motherboard for a fuse. It will be a smd (surface mounted device) type of fuse and maybe will not be marked as such, i.e. if marked it should have an F designation e.g. Fxxx etc. I don’t know what its’ designation is (if there is one) or where it is exactly situated, but with most laptops the backlight fuse is mounted very close to the screen flex cable connector on the motherboard.

Use an Ohmmeter to check the various suitable looking components to see if they are short circuit. A fuse that tests short circuit is a good fuse. Do this with the battery disconnected from the systemboard

If you measure a component that is open circuit it may be a capacitor but maybe not, it may be the fuse..

You came to the right place, unicorn lover; that's what this site is all about.

I have bad news and good news. The bad news is that iFixit doesn't have a guide for your phone, but the good news is there's a Spanish site called Nadie Me Llama Gallina (Nobody Calls Me Chicken) that has exactly what you need.

Manuales / Motorola One / screen

The automatic translation on this site seems to work fairly well, with a couple of little quirks. The translation for "battery" comes out as "drums" and "flex cables" come out as "tablecloths" but otherwise you won't have any trouble following it if you're not a Spanish speaker.

You'll need to get together some tools; you'll need a thin metal opening tool, a set of plastic opening picks wouldn't hurt, a #00 Phillips screwdriver, a plastic spudger and a source of heat; the iOpener is a good choice, but a hair dryer will work fine if need be. You'll need something to take out the SIM tray; a paper clip will work in a pinch.

For parts to start with you'll need a replacement screen; those can be gotten in several places like Amazon, eBay and AliExpress among others. Here's one of the first ones to come up on a cursory search; you can undoubtedly find more options with a more extensive search.

Amazon.com: New Replacement LCD Screen Compatible with Moto One XT1941-1 XT1941-3 XT1941-4 LCD Touch Screen Display Assembly with Tools : Cell Phones & Accessories

Finally, you'll want to try and locate some precut adhesive sheets in order to put the phone back together again when you're done. There are three kinds you should get.

• Screen adhesive
• Rear cover adhesive
• Battery adhesive

That should get you going; feel free to come on back and ask if you have any questions or need any help along the way. Good luck with your repair; let us know how it goes!

Hi @pog13th ,

There seems to be a few different model variants in the series but fortunately there are also some service manuals as well.

They have the troubleshooting flowcharts and the schematics which should make it easier to find out what is or is not happening.

Hi,

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

Don’t know how hot the defrost heater gets but the defrost thermostat will operate when the freezer temperature reaches about 40°F and this turns off the heater. If there is a thermistor used instead of a thermostat, then its’ resistance value will be seen by the control board and it will turn off the heater. You don’t want the evaporator unit to get too hot as it is designed to operate at very cold temperatures i.e. ~0°F and it is only thin aluminium.

I realize that you said that “Everything checks out good and I’ve had the chip checked” although I’m not sure what you mean by “the chip”.

Have you checked that the defrost thermostat (or thermistor) is OK ?

Or that the drain from below the evaporator unit in the freezer to the evaporator pan under the compartments near the compressor is OK and not blocked? If blocked this prevents the defrost meltwater from flowing away to be evaporated and it backs up and refreezes and builds up with each subsequent defrost cycle.

Have you checked that the auto defrost cycle is occurring?

You haven’t given the make and model so the auto defrost may be either controlled by a defrost timer or a control board. With most auto defrost refrigerators the defrost cycle occurs once every 8-12 hours (depends on make and model) and lasts for about 20 minutes.

During this time the compressor and the evaporator fan are both stopped and the temperature in the freezer compartment is allowed to rise to start melting the ice build up on the evaporator. The defrost heater is turned on to speed up the process as you don’t want the frozen food to even to begin to thaw. When the temperature reaches the defrost thermostat’s set temperature it operates to stop the cycle by signalling the control board (or the timer) to turn off the heater and to start the compressor and evaporator fan again to drive the temperatures back down again. As the temperature drops the defrost thermostat resets ready for the next defrost cycle. (if it is a thermistor its resistance will vary at a known set rate with the change in temperatures and the control board monitors the thermistor’s resistance values).

Apologies for the long answer but thought if you understand what should happen then it makes it easier to find out what may be happening when it doesn’t

Hi @othermeans ,

Does it do this with all DVDs or only the one?

If only the one it may be a faulty or dirty disc.

If it happens on all discs have you tried cleaning the laser lens (example only) in the dvd player, you didn’t say?

Hi @rick86 ,

Here is a link to the motherboard schematics.

Not 100% sure that this is for your exact model but it is for HP Pavillion 15 so it may be close enough to be of some help.

On p.34 (see image) it shows the charge circuit.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing).

If it is not the correct schematic, look for the board make and model number which should be printed on the motherboard. A quick search shows that it may be a Quanta motherboard as HP seems to have used this board manufacturer for the Pavillion 15 series but maybe not all. If you find the board number search for (insert board make and model number) schematics to hopefully find the correct one for your model.