Error code E:61:11 Autofocus not working, manual focus not possible
I've had ths problem before, and it turned out to be the flex connector that goes into the floating gimbal wheere the lens is housed. I also had another problem where the camera completely died because that same flex connector snapped or was cut through by the sharp edge of the chassis, where the connector goes into the floating lens assembly.
But after fixing that issue, I now get one of two errors:
Either c:32:60 or E:61:11. The lens assembly has power again, but everything is out of focus. I can still zoom in and out, and the image is in focus at 2 points within the zoom range, but it makes no adjustments. Switching to manual focus also doesn't work. The little symbol just rapidly switches from 1 meter to infinity as I try to adjust. On autofocus, the same happens - a rapid switching between the flower and mountain symbols that represent the same.
Also: When I turn the camera on, there are clicking sounds, and it takes longer to switch on. I think the autofocus either came out of calibration somehow, or one of the connectors that takes visual data to wherever the focusing is calculated, isn't connected.
I've tried a factory reset, turning the camera off and on again in various orientations, etc.
I don't think it's a physical problem like a slipping gear or anything, because the last repairs didn't require messing with anything like that. The motors for the zoom and focus, are attached to the floating lens assembly, and I never needed to disassemble that.
Any ideas? I'm going to disassemble it again anyways to checK all the flex connectors are inserted properly...and because the mic flex connector split during the last reassembly.
Update (05/25/23)
Right, I got the old connector off And got the pads re-tinned. And %#*@, do I need better flux! So much black slag was floating up out of nowhere, I can barely see what I'm doing. There are two pads That developed a bridge I absolutely can't get rid of, but looking at the board, it looks like it doesn't matter if they're shorted, since they seem to be connected anyways.
So now it's a matter of putting the new connector on. I'm not even going to try heating the board from beneath. I really don't trust this chinese solder paste
Is this a good question?