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GE Monogram 48" side by side air circulation question

The result of this issue (apparently improper circulation) is that the freezer goes into a deep freeze while trying to make the fresh food section 40f. The freezer has evidenced a temp of -13f or similar.

In the process of isolating the cause, I have removed the Styrofoam extension from the damper (see graphic) in the area of the red ellipse/circle. With that removed the freezer and fresh food temps are normal at -1f and 40f for days/weeks on end.

If I reinstall the styrofoam the issue of the deep freeze begins and never corrects itself until the styrofoam is once again removed.

The styrofoam in question is located in the area of the red ellipse/circle in the attached graphic. The air is supposed to move to the right and then down the center section of the back wall. I get no air moving when I hold a long piece of cellophane in front of the closest opening.

I looked to the right inside the top of the back wall opening with a mirror and flashlight and all looks clean and open.

Also, I have replaced the damper and verified it is opening and closing. I has always appeared open when the issue is present.

Any ideas?

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Update (03/11/25)

And here is a pic of the styrofoam part in question.

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Hi @nick29463

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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Sorry, it's ZISS480DRHSS

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Hi @nick29463

Here's the Technical Service Guide that may help.

Your refrigerator model series is not listed in the guide but as best as I can find out it is also applicable to your model as well.

Go to p.52 (54 of 65 pdf) to view the procedure to conduct the diagnostic tests and check if they show anything amiss, especially test 0:7 i.e control and sensor system self test.

If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's a parts list that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the manufacturer's part number that is shown with it. Search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

Sometimes if you're lucky if you search on YouTube for (insert wanted part number) replacement there may be videos that show how to remove/replace the part.

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Have performed all those tests previously (this issue has been masking other issues that have been fixed, either by a tech or by DIY). I noticed that the problem stabilizes if the styrofoam is not securely positioned so it does not leak. As you may have noticed, one of the two fresh food (FF) thermistors is located right below the styrofoam. When the styrofoam is not in place or leaking a bit, cold air appears to be dropping down from the damper over the thermistor giving the impression that all is well. An IR spot thermometer confirms the displayed FF temps being displayed are accurate.

The opening for the air return to the freezer is located very close to the damper opening - see the upper left corner of air flow diagram for the Fresh Food Side where is says "Return".

It makes sense that the cold air is getting to the FF side, but it seems there is not enough of it to force air through the back panel and down/up as the graphic shows.

I did replace the evaporator fan a while back, so think that may have contributed to this issue, I removed the ice collection bin to determine if the flow of air was correct and I verified the position of the blades/fins and the depth at which they hang down below the frame. I previously viewed the interior of the FZ side through the open damper using a mirror and flashlight; didn't see any ice buildup, but the view was limited.

Clearly the freezer is able to make cold air and I believe the thermistors are reading correctly, but I am not able to determine why there is insufficient air moving from the FZ to the FF when the styrofoam is in place.

There may be a blockage at the top of the back air flow panel (that would explain this situation) but I was not able to see anything looking to the right toward the back panel and I have trouble imagining what the blockage might look like.

Will probably have to empty the fridge and pull the back panel off to be sure, unless someone has another idea.

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@nick29463

Did you measure the voltage on the evaporator fan?

Looking at p.16 (18 of 65 pdf) it shows that there's 12V DC seen when the fan is on high speed and 8V when on low or medium.

See p.61 (63 of 65 pdf) for the evap fan troubleshooting flowchart.

It may be that the fan never runs at high speed at all i.e. control board problem.

The diagnostics don't seem to test the fan directly.

Other thought is maybe the "return" path in the refrigerator side is blocked (see fridge side in the image of airflow you posted) so that air can enter but it is difficult for it to flow through as there is no clear outlet.

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Good thought about the 12v high speed. I have a new main board on my desk; it's a pretty quick change out. Heading to the optometrist so my guess is I'll get to it tomorrow...

Thanks

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