I have a different iPod, but for a long time the battery was very weak but it still worked fine plugged in. The battery finally started eating too much and got fat. I changed it. All is well now.

If it doesn't work plugged in, something else might be going on, but I would start with a new battery.

You don't. You contact the original owner.

Hi

Here’s the maintenance and service guide for the laptop, taken from this webpage.

Go to p.69 to view the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedure to remove /replace the power button board.

Once you have disconnected the board you should be able to work out how to test if the button contacts are OK by using an Ohmmeter to test for continuity when the button is operated.

If the button is faulty it may be easier to simply replace the board. Just search for 686917-001, to get results for suppliers that suit you.)

Hi,

If everything else is OK the laptop should turn on without a hard drive installed and then progress to a point where there is a message on the screen saying that there is “no operating system found” or something similar due to no HDD (or any drive type e.g. USB, DVD/CD ) connected with a bootable operating system.

I cannot find any standalone software that will allow you to check the condition of the battery as most test programs require an operating system (OS) to be installed which means either a HDD or one installed on a USB flashdrive connected to the laptop, so that the laptop can boot using it.

A quick and dirty test to check if the battery is reasonably OK:

Connect the charger to the laptop and verify that the laptop shows that it is charging the battery.

If not then there may be a problem with the charger, the laptop’s charging circuit or the battery

If so let it fully charge and then start the laptop and get into BIOS.

Once you are in the BIOS menus, check that the laptop stays on when you disconnect the charger and how long it stays on for. If the battery is in a reasonably good condition, as the laptop is not doing much, power wise when in BIOS, it should stay on for hours. If it turns off in a short time then the battery is failing and should be replaced.

You could always download, install and run a free standalone memory test program from a USB flashdrive and check if the laptop stays on when on battery only when running the program.

It’s not that you’re testing the memory per se, but running the program means that a lot of the system hardware is being utilized to do so, meaning that more power is being used from the battery than when just in BIOS mode.

If it stays on for the full test and then if you reconnect the charger and it doesn’t take long to fully charge again the battery should be OK. If the laptop shuts down before the test is finished …..

Hi @rick86 ,

Here is a link to the motherboard schematics.

Not 100% sure that this is for your exact model but it is for HP Pavillion 15 so it may be close enough to be of some help.

On p.34 (see image) it shows the charge circuit.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing).

If it is not the correct schematic, look for the board make and model number which should be printed on the motherboard. A quick search shows that it may be a Quanta motherboard as HP seems to have used this board manufacturer for the Pavillion 15 series but maybe not all. If you find the board number search for (insert board make and model number) schematics to hopefully find the correct one for your model.

Hi @othermeans ,

Does it do this with all DVDs or only the one?

If only the one it may be a faulty or dirty disc.

If it happens on all discs have you tried cleaning the laser lens (example only) in the dvd player, you didn’t say?

Hi,

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

Don’t know how hot the defrost heater gets but the defrost thermostat will operate when the freezer temperature reaches about 40°F and this turns off the heater. If there is a thermistor used instead of a thermostat, then its’ resistance value will be seen by the control board and it will turn off the heater. You don’t want the evaporator unit to get too hot as it is designed to operate at very cold temperatures i.e. ~0°F and it is only thin aluminium.

I realize that you said that “Everything checks out good and I’ve had the chip checked” although I’m not sure what you mean by “the chip”.

Have you checked that the defrost thermostat (or thermistor) is OK ?

Or that the drain from below the evaporator unit in the freezer to the evaporator pan under the compartments near the compressor is OK and not blocked? If blocked this prevents the defrost meltwater from flowing away to be evaporated and it backs up and refreezes and builds up with each subsequent defrost cycle.

Have you checked that the auto defrost cycle is occurring?

You haven’t given the make and model so the auto defrost may be either controlled by a defrost timer or a control board. With most auto defrost refrigerators the defrost cycle occurs once every 8-12 hours (depends on make and model) and lasts for about 20 minutes.

During this time the compressor and the evaporator fan are both stopped and the temperature in the freezer compartment is allowed to rise to start melting the ice build up on the evaporator. The defrost heater is turned on to speed up the process as you don’t want the frozen food to even to begin to thaw. When the temperature reaches the defrost thermostat’s set temperature it operates to stop the cycle by signalling the control board (or the timer) to turn off the heater and to start the compressor and evaporator fan again to drive the temperatures back down again. As the temperature drops the defrost thermostat resets ready for the next defrost cycle. (if it is a thermistor its resistance will vary at a known set rate with the change in temperatures and the control board monitors the thermistor’s resistance values).

Apologies for the long answer but thought if you understand what should happen then it makes it easier to find out what may be happening when it doesn’t

Hi @pog13th ,

There seems to be a few different model variants in the series but fortunately there are also some service manuals as well.

They have the troubleshooting flowcharts and the schematics which should make it easier to find out what is or is not happening.

Hi @lewyb

With some LG TVs there is an inverter board associated with the LCD panel i.e. part of the panel but I don’t know about your model.

Here’s a link to the service manual for your TV (I think). The translation seems to indicate that it is. It is a .rar type file and I haven’t downloaded it to check but maybe scan it for viruses first before opening it, just to be sure.

Usually LG service manuals have good troubleshooting flowcharts and some schematics to help find problems such as no video etc.

Hopefully this is of some help.