Nikon D3000 Troubleshooting

The LCD screen shows a partial display or nothing

If the LCD screen is broken, the main display for the camera may show little or no graphics normally seen during startup or after taking pictures. This is normally diagnosed by visible cracked lines running from each end of the display and a liquid substance on or around the cracks. If the entire LCD screen is cracked, nothing may be seen at all, with the exception of the screen being illuminated via the back-light. The LCD screen will simply have to be swapped for a replacement. Click here for a guide showing the steps to replace the LCD.

If the screen does not turn on at all and no back-light can be seen, the entire screen may be faulty or the connections from the screen to the motherboard may be missing or broken. Another indication of connections issues would be a flickering screen where imaging is intermittent. In this case, checking or verifying the connections is the first step to identifying the cause. Ultimately, the LCD may have to be replaced if the loose connections are internal.

If the digital signal processing/micro-controller section of the motherboard is faulty, the screen will not receive any information to display. The back-light may or may not work, but the screen will be blank or show an error. In either case, the motherboard will have to be either repaired or replaced. For a guide showing the necessary steps to replace the motherboard, click here.

The “press shutter release button again” error is an indication that the shutter wheel is stuck or is not fully cycling

This error becomes more common with age and foreign material blocking, sticking to, or otherwise jamming the shutter wheel is a common cause of the error. In the case the error is this simple, exposing the shutter wheel, cleaning the areas around it, and lubricating the wheel can fix this issue. This should be the first step if this error is received. Click here for a guide to lubricate and manually rotate the shutter gear.

After inspecting the shutter wheel, it should be obvious if the wheel is broken or missing teeth. In this case, the only option is to replace the faulty gear.

If the motor has failed, the noise normally heard when taking pictures to cycle the shutter may not be heard and the shutter will not cycle completely. In this case, the motor may be the cause. Inspecting the gear for free movement will help identify an issue with the motor itself. The motor can be tested and repaired if a contact issue exists (perhaps due to dropping the camera), or the motor may need to be replaced.

The flash arm does not pop up automatically when taking pictures or no light comes from the flash arm when up during pictures.

The flash arm should release and pop up automatically when necessary during picture taking. This should occur in dim lighting when the shutter button is pressed halfway down. The camera uses a mechanical release mechanism that sometimes becomes displaced due to dropping the camera or other types of impact. The most common fix is simply placing the mechanical spring mechanism back into its guide to keep it aligned during the flash process. Click here for a guide on how to repair a misaligned spring.

In this instance, the flash arm works mechanically but not electrically. The bulb uses a simple positive and negative lead that should be check for continuity, as well as a capacitor that must also be checked. If the capacitor fails, it will not charge and create an open in the flash circuit. In the case of an open circuit, inspect the wiring and capacitor and repair/replace the break or component. The bulb itself is designed to last the life of the camera and is often not the cause of flash issues.

The camera refuses to start up when the power button is pushed.

If the camera does not power on, it may simply be an issue of the battery being defective, low, or completely dead. Check to make sure the battery is the correct model and correctly inserted into the battery slot. If this does not resolve the issue, charge or replace the battery before getting into more in depth troubleshooting.

If the motherboard or components on the motherboard no longer function correctly, any applied voltage could potentially create short circuits; this usually happens when the camera becomes wet. In addition, if connections are broken or loose on the motherboard, the voltage regulation or voltage controller may provide insufficient power to turn on the device. In this case, troubleshooting the integrated circuits or connections on the motherboard may prove difficult with basic equipment. In this situation, the motherboard will likely have to be replaced. For a guide showing the necessary steps to replace the motherboard, click here.

If the battery has leaked and corroded battery terminals, or if the terminals become oxidized or broken, an open circuit could be created and prevent the camera from powering on. In some cases, the terminals can be repaired with cleaning or light sanding. If the terminals are beyond repair, they must be replaced.

If the on/off switch is broken or disconnected, the camera will not power even with sufficient power. The on/off switch creates circuit disconnect by default that must be fixed to complete the power circuit for the camera. If the switch is broken, it must be replaced; if there is a circuit break in the connection from or to the switch, that must be repaired. Click here for a guide showing how to check and replace the on/off switch.

The glass that covers the LCD display is either broken or missing.

This essentially covers all cases where the glass cover for the LCD is missing or broken. It requires basic disassembling of the front cover and must be removed and replaced. Replacements are fairly cheap and are available new from many sites online. To replace the LCD glass cover, follow the steps here.